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Flag of Germany. 







A LITTLE JOURNEY TO 


SOUTH GERMANY 


FOR INTERMEDIATE AND 
UPPER GRADES 


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EDITED BY 

MARIAN M. GEORGE 


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CHICAGO 

A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 






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THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

Two Copies Received 

JUN 27 1903 

^^Copyiignt Entry 

CLASS Cl XXc. No, 

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Copyright 1903 

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I 







A Little Journey to 
South Germany 

South Germany is a land of song and legend, of art 
and industry. The Rhineland itself offers so many 
attractions that one might spend many months in that 
part of the country with great pleasure. With so 
much that is interesting and instructive to choose from, 
it is difficult for us to make up our minds as to just what 
we most wish to see, but after some study we decide 
upon the following points of interest: 

I. The Rhineland: 

1. Essen, an important manufacturing town. 

2. Cologne, the ^Tity of the Church. 

3. Rhine castles, famous in legend. 

4. Coblenz, a great fortress. 

5. Mainz, the city of vineyards. 

6. Frankfort, the great banking city. 

7. Heidelberg, a university town. 

8. Baden, a watering-place. 

9. Strassburg, a French city. 

II. The Schwarz WALD, a forest region of legends 
and quaint customs. 

III. Bavaria: 

1. Oberammergau, village of the Passion Play. 

2. Munich, the city of art and beer. 

3. Nuremberg, the city of song and toys. 


4 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

THE RHINELAND 

Our first excursion in the Rhineland will be to Essen, 
the ^dron City/^ beside the Ruhr. This river flows 
from the east into the Rhine, about forty miles below 
Cologne. We pass through a black country dotted 
with foundries and factories, from which forests of 
smokestacks arise. 

In the towns and cities of this part of Germany 
everything under the sun is manufactured. There 
are steel and iron mills, wool, cotton, silk, and velvet 
mills, glass works, and shops for the manufacture of all 
kinds of articles. This is one of the greatest steel cen¬ 
ters of the world. 

ESSEN 

Ill the very center of this region is Essen. It ought 
to have been named Eisen (Iron), for it is indeed an 
iron city. Through the great industry represented 
by the Krupp Gun Works the little town has grown to 
a city of one hundred thousand inhabitants. It has 
the largest factory of its kind in the world, covering 
more than five hundred acres and employing more than 
forty-three thousand men. 

Upon a hill outside the city is a linden tree and 
underneath it a little cross. This marks the last rest¬ 
ing-place of one whose memory is still dear to the in¬ 
habitants of Essen. 

Ages ago the people who lived along the Ruhr were 
savage and warlike. Their country was a wilderness 
covered with marsh and overgrown with weeds and 
bushes. There came to them one day from another 
land this man whom they called Alfred, because he 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze THE BEAUTIFUL RHINE 



6 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


came to teach ,them ^)eace ,, Some day you shall hear 

^ • , A* 

his story. 

There has*just been laid to rest in Essen another Al¬ 
fred, who, though in a very different way, has done 
much to teach peace. This is Frederick Alfred Krupp, 
the great gunmaker. 

But how can a maker of the most terrible machines 
of war teach peace? Herr Krupp himself declared that 
he was the greatest peacemaker the world has ever 
known. And Herr Krupp’s father, the founder of the 
works, once said to General Von Moltke: ^The greater 
the size of a nation’s guns, the less likely that nation 
will be to go to war.” What he meant was that other 
countries would dread to begin war with a nation able 
to do them so much harm. 

Many things besides guns are made at Essen. Here 
are turned out the different parts of locomotives, steam¬ 
ships, triphammers, bridges, and steel for various tools. 

The largest gun that has ever been made was cast at 
Essen. Not only are the Krupp works noted for the 
size of their guns, but for the great number and fine 
quality of these huge weapons as well. More than 
forty thousand cannons have been sent out to thirty- 
five different countries. 

, May any nation buy guns at Essen? Not at any 
price, if that nation be an enemy of Germany. The 
Krupps have always been such true patriots that they 
would rather meet death than allow one of these giants 
evei to be turned against the Fatherland. It was 
chiefly love for their countr}^, and a desire to see it the 
greatest nation in the world, that gave them courage 
to face the difficulties they met. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 7 

It is the great care which has always been taken to 
make each piece perfect that has brought renown to 
the Krupp name. The elder Herr Kriipp experimented 
ten years on cannons before he could make one to suit 
him, but he succeeded at last. When he first began 
casting guns he said to General Von Moltke: 'Tf you 
!can burst one of my cannons, I will give two hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars to charity.This brought 
him orders for more guns than he could make. 

Essen is really almost owned by the Krupps. In 
walking about the city we find that the hotel, hospital, 
club-houses, schools and railroad station all belong to 
the Krupps. It would take us days to go through their 
steel works, and we shall have time for but a brief visit. 

( 

I 

THE GUN WORKS 

i 

Let us see some of the interesting things in the great 
Vorks. Do you wonder where the 5,500 tons of coal 
'a day come from to feed the 1,600 furnaces? It comes 
in trainloads from the Krupp mines, at the rate of 140 
cars a day. Some of these coal mines are along the 
river, for the Ruhr Valley is the richest coal region of 
Germany. Some are far away. 

! And where do the tons upon tons of iron and pow- 
,dered marble used in this immense factory come from? 
'They, too, are brought from the Krupp mines, in Ger- 
'many and Spain. One thousand coal and iron mines 
'and marble quarries are all a part of the great Essen 
'system. 

‘ Here are 140 hammers weighing from 400 pounds to 
50 tons. Each has its own name. Of these monsters 
the most famous is ''Fritz,’’ whose weight is 50 tons. 


8 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 



Loaned by Mrs. VV H. Hiiitze 

IN TROUBLE 

and whose foundation is 100 feet deep. One would 
think that with all its weight the huge hammer would 
be clumsy, but no! it is said to be so delicately set 
that when let fall at full speed to within half an inch 
of the face of a watch, it can be stopped so quickly as 
not to break the crystal. 

V' 

Emperor William I. once came to Essen to see Fritz 
oerform this trick. But, alas! the giant must have 
been out of sorts, for he crushed the Emperor’s watch 
as flat as a wafer. Emperor William took the joke 
very kindly. Usually, however, Fritz does the will of 
his master, whether with a shock like an earthquake or 
the gentlest of taps. 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


9 


is almost as mighty. Think of his hammering 
a hundred plates of steel into one by the blows of his 
giant fist! 

Besides the many^ many rooms where all the ma¬ 
chinery is made, we find immense warehouses, a tele¬ 
phone line with 380 stations, a telegraph office with 
30 branch stations, a printing office, photograph gal¬ 
lery, bookbindery, and several laboratories where 
the most delicate experiments are made, in which not 
the thousandth part of an inch must be lost in measur- 
ing. 

In addition to all this, we are told, the Krupps own 
branch works in eight other towns, a railroad with for¬ 
ty-four locomotives, three ocean steamers, and wharves 
in Holland, besides their thousand mines. 

THE KRUPP COLONIES 

We must see something of the town, as well, for Es¬ 
sen is one of the model towns of the world. It has 
been built largely by the Krupps, for they have 
always been interested in the lives of their men. 
So that their workmen may not be obliged to live 
huddled together in tenement houses, the Krupps 
have built several thousand cottages where each 
family may live by itself. Some cottages have four 
rooms, some more, while the handsomest rent for 
about $80 a year. Everywhere around these gaily 
painted cottages are flower-beds and green alleys and 
pleasant squares. On all sides there is an air of 
contentment. 

For the workmen without families hotels have been 
built, where the board is only a few cents a day. Hospi- 


10 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

tals, free-schools and trades-schools have been estab¬ 
lished. In order that the workmen’s families may 
live as cheaply as possible, stores of all kinds, bakeries, 
and markets have been opened. 

When the workmen grow too old or feeble to work 
they are given a pension. One portion of the town 
is set aside for them, and is called the Court of the 
Aged. This is the loveliest of all the Krupp colonies. 
Herr Krupp remembered his workmen in his will, 
leaving $750,000 for their benefit. His daughter, 
who now owns the factory, has given $250,000 more 
to improve the town of Essen. 

But our carriage is waiting and we must depart 
for the neighboring station, where we are to take a 
train for Cologne. Soon we are in sight of the Rhine, 
the most glorious river in Europe, which is dear to 
the heart of every German. 

THE RHINE 

The Rhine is one of the most important waterways 
of Europe. Rising in the glaciers of the Alps, it flows 
over eight hundred miles before it is lost in the North 
Sea. It runs through the busiest part of Europe, and 
carries much of the commerce of the region. 

Hundreds of steamers and thousands of barges are 
constantly moving up and down its six hundred miles 
of navigable waters; some laden with goods for the 
railroads through the Alps to Mediterranean countries, 
and even to Asia and Africa; some with wares from 
these lands for North Europe and America. Great 
rafts from the forest regions are floated down. Most 
of the Rhine flows through Germany, only its beginning 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


11 


and ending being in other countries. All this wealth 
of trade, therefore, passes through Germany’s hands. 

Nowhere else are found so many fine vineyards, and 
nowhere else do vineyards yield grapes so finely 
flavored, as in the Rhineland. The Rhine castles, 
too, are famous the world over. 

Cologne is where tourists usually commence the 
journey up the Rhine by boat, for here the beautiful 
scener}^ along the river begins. Below Cologne the 
stream flows through a flat and rather uninteresting 
country. - . ^ 

“HOLY COLOGNE” 

Here we are within sight of Cologne—or Koeln, 
as it is everywhere in Germany called. One could 
not get a glimpse of Cologne, however, without first 
seeing the cathedral. For miles in all directions its 
towers are visible, rising grandly above everything 
else. Cologne has 360,000 inhabitants. It is one 
of the very, very old cities of Germany, having been 
founded nearly two thousand years ago. It got its 
name from the Romans, who tried to conquer the 
Rhine country. They had founded a colony here, 
which they called Colonia,from whichweget ^^Cologne.” 

The station at which we leave the train is a large 
modern building with a great clock-tower. We find 
our cab at the farther end of an iron pavilion eight 
hudred feet long, and are driven at once to our pension 
or boarding-house. We think ourselves fortunate in 
getting rooms not far away, on the principal street of 
the city, across the corner from the Dom or cathedral. 
This is the object of greatest interest to the visitor in 
Cologne. 



12 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


This gem of Cologne is one of the grandest cathe¬ 
drals in the world, and must of course claim our first 
attention. It faces the west and has a wide space 
around it, so we can stand at a distance and see all 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

COLOGNE 


parts of its facade at once. It covers two acres and 
is built in the form of a cross four hundred and eighty 
feet in length, with a rounded end at the cross’s head. 
The whole cathedral seems a mass of beautifully carved 
stone arches crowned with hundreds of little towers. 
Its two great towers rise five hundred and twelve 
feet on a foundation sixty-five feet deep. 

From the outside entrance we climb the south 
tower until we are far above the main part of the 
















A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 13 

church. Such a view as one gets from this great 
height! To the south lie Bonn and the Seven Moun¬ 
tains, while the Rhine like a blue ribbon seems to 
float below. 

Away up here is the ''Great Bell of Cologne/’ the 
Emperor’s Bell. There are other bells, too, but they 
seem very small compared with this one. It weighs 
twenty-seven tons and it takes twenty-eight men to 
ring it. It was made from cannons captured in war, 
and on it is the inscription: 

I am the Emperor’s bell; 

The Emperor’s praise I tell. 

If you care to know how the great bell sounds, 
try the little game children call "Bells of Cologne.” 
Tie a twine around the handle of a silver tablespoon, 
leaving two quite long ends. Wind these around the 
forefingers and put the finger-tips in the ears. Then 
tap the bowl of the spoon against the edge of the 
bare table, and listen—beautiful, deep-toned bells! 
It really sounds much like the huge bell of Cologne 
Cathedral. 

But we must see something of other parts of the 
cathedral. Entering the great central doorway, ninety 
feet high, one stands beneath arches so tall that it 
makes the eye ache to look to their top. It is like 
being in a mighty forest; the pillars resemble lofty 
forest-trees spreading out into branchlike arches at 
the top. 

Here and there are groups of visitors, while red- 
gowned men called vergers are stationed in different 
parts, to keep order. The stained-glass windows on 
the left side are worth careful study, for they are 



14 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


among the finest in the world. They were made 
nearly four hundred years ago. The modern windows 
on the other side were given by Ludwig I., the art-king 
of Bavaria. 

The choir with its great organ is in the farther end 
of the building. It has beautiful carved pillars and 
railings, and stained-glass windows of the thirteenth 
and fourteenth centuries. Around the choir are 
grouped seven chapels, containing the tombs of some 
of the archbishops of Cologne. 

One chapel is of special interest. It holds the 
tomb of Archbishop Conrad, the founder of the cathe¬ 
dral. Here, too, in a heavy oak frame, is the parch¬ 
ment sketch of the cathedral towers which was lost 
for a time. 

One chapel is called the Chapel of the Three Kings,’^ 
although the bones of the Magi are now in another 
part of the cathedral. One sometimes hears the 
cathedral called the ^‘Church of the Three Kings. 
This, we are told, is how it came to bear that name: 

Long, long ago, before the cathedral was begun, 
the Emperor captured in war the bones of the Three 
Kings, as the three Wise Men were called who brought 
gifts to the child Jesus. The Emperor gave these 
bones to Cologne, and thousands of people came to 
worship before them. The people of Cologne must 
have a church worthy to hold such a relic, so the 
Cathedral of the Three Kings was planned. 

In olden times if one wished to take a solemn oath, 
it was by the Three Kings. The old Robber Barons 
of the Rhine would swear by everything sacred in 
heaven, and the next minute would break their oath. 



COLOGNE CATHEDRAL 


7' 


t 



















































16 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

but let them swear by the Three Kings of Cologne 
and they always kept their word. 

What a history this church has had! Six hundred 
and thirty-two years it took to build it. It was begun 
with great ceremony and a part was finished. Then 
came war, and all work on the building stopped. It 
seemed for a time as though it would never be com¬ 
pleted. 

France and Germany were at war, and French 
troops held Cologne. The soldiers used one part 
of the cathedral for their camp, and stored hay for 
their horses in another. They carried away as rub¬ 
bish the precious plan by which it was hoped the 
great towers might one day be finished. After a 
time the Germans won a victory and the Rhine prov¬ 
inces were given back to the Fatherland. 

Just at this time, too, the plan of the cathedral, 
drawn on beautiful parchment, was found away off 
in another city. A good housewife had tacked it on 
a frame and was drying her beans on it! But the 
beans had to finish drying on something else, for the 
precious parchment, rack and all, was bought and 
brought back with joy to Cologne. Then the Germans 
forgot they had ever been poor, and began to talk 
of finishing this wonderful building. 

At last, in 1880, it was finished after the original 
plan, and amid great rejoicing. The great bell and 
a hundred others were rung. Masses were said. People 
from all Germany and beyond "'the sea came to help 
Cologne rejoice. It seemed to the German people like 
seeing the face of a friend whom they had given up 
for lost. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


17 


^‘Who planned this glorious Dom?’’ we ask. ^‘No 
one knows/’ is our guide’s reply. There is, however, 
an interesting legend about the architect and his 
wonderful plan. 

Archbishop Conrad asked a certain architect to 
draw a design for the cathedral. The artist could 
dream out his plan, but the moment he awoke it 
slipped entirely from him. Satan appeared to him 
one day and offered to furnish him a plan more beau¬ 
tiful than his own. ^‘What price must I pay?” asked 
the artist. The price must be your soul,” was Satan’s 
answer. The architect begged for a night in which 
to think it over. 

A friend advised him to take Satan’s plan in his 
hands; by glancing over it he would be able to learn 
it. The artist did so, and finally refused to make 
the bargain. Satan saw he was outwitted, and cried: 
^^You have deceived me, but remember this—when 
your beautiful temple is finished after my design, your 
name will be unknown!” 

OTHER SIGHTS OF THE CITY 

Although the cathedral is the gem of Cologne, there 
are one hundred and forty other churches. In olden 
times there were as many as there are days in the 
year. The Church of St. Ursula contains relics which 
are not at all beautiful; yet many visit them. The 
walls are lined with cases of bones. Where could so 
many have come from! It is said that St. Ursula 
made a journey to Rome, taking with her eleven 
thousand maidens. On the way home they met an 
army of fierce Huns near Cologne and were slain. 
These are their bones. 



18 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


Near the river is the Rathhouse, or Town Hall, 
begun in the fourteenth century and built piecemeal 
on an old Roman foundation. Near by is the great 
Banquet Hall, where the city entertains her distin- 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

CONFIRMATION DAY 

guished guests. Next to the cathedral, we think it 
the finest of all the ancient buildings of Cologne. The 
great banquet-room is nearly two hundred feet long. 
The first festival held in it was for the Emperor, years 
before the good people of Cologne had even heard of 
America. 

On leaving the Banquet Hall we spy coming up 
the street what proves to be a church procession, 
though just what the occasion of it is we are unable to 









A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 19 

learn. It seems to have come from the cathedral. 
First twelve priests pass, bearing crosses and garlands 
of oak-leaves; then a cardinal follows in gold-embroi¬ 
dered scarlet robe and cap, walking under a canopy 
carried by four priests. Behind him are boys swing¬ 
ing their incense-burners and chanting low music. 
Then come boys carrying the holy-wafer chest and the 
golden cup used in the sacrament. 

Groups of boys and girls follow, here and there 
headed by a priest in his robes. Very picturesque 
they look—the girls with their garlands and baskets 
of flowers, the boys bearing crosses. Last come the 
citizens, according to caste, the wealthy leading and 
the laborers and peasants following. It would be hard 
to tell how many there are in the procession, but it 
is three or four blocks in length. Every few minutes 
the whole line kneels, while the cardinal or a priest 
intones a mass. Finally the last of the procession is 
lost to view around the corner, and we return to our 
pension. 

We take a rainy morning to visit the museum, as 
it is just around the corner from our rooms. It has 
many statues, paintings, and curios. Among the most 
interesting works are paintings by Rubens and the 
early German artists, but we linger longest over Gustav 
Richter^s beautiful Queen Louise,’^ of which so many 
copies are seen at home. 

A ride must be taken through the Gardens and Ring 
Strasse. When the old fortifications were removed, 
the space they had covered was laid out in a line of 
boulevards, which all together are called the Ring 
Strasse. They extend for three miles and a half and 



encircle the old part of town, except on the Rhine side. 
Everywhere along this beautiful drive are fine trees 
and flower-beds, while here and there are statues and 
parts of the old city wall. Three of the ancient gates 
and lodges are left, and have been fitted up as muse- 


20 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


GUSTAV RICHTER’S “QUEEN LOUISE” 


urns. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


21 


We take the tramway at the south end of the Ring. 
After passing through pleasure grounds we come to one 
of the great gates, fitted up as a museum for minerals 
and fossils. Beyond this the Ring is very wide, and 
bordering it are many beautiful private houses. This 
neighborhood is one of the most fashionable of the city, 
and has several streets leading to the Public Gardens. 
This seems to be a favorite time for visiting the Gar¬ 
dens, for throngs of people are strolling in that direc¬ 
tion. 

Half-way around the Ring is another city gate, con¬ 
taining interesting things connected with Cologne’s 
history. Here are ancient weapons and banners, and 
the old coins, weights and measures of Cologne, for 
long ago the city fixed her own weights and coined her 
own money. Toward the north end is the third gate, 
with its collection of animals, birds and insects. Be¬ 
yond this the Ring is much like a park, with statues, 
flowers and fountains. 

The odd, narrow little streets in the center of town 
are the oldest. Our guide tells us they were laid out 
before wheeled carriages came into use, and they were 
thought wide enough for the foot-travel of those days. 
Plere is one so narrow that we can almost reach from 
side to side. 

We visit the river and look at the bridges. The iron 
bridge has a double railway track and a roadway. The 
other is the most curious bridge we have ever seen; it is 
made of boats, bound side by side in sections so that 
some can be taken out to open a way for steamers. 
Heavy planks are laid across to form a flooring over 
which people may pass. 


22 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

The wharves are an interesting sight. Here one may 
watch the Rhine steamers load and unload their rich 
cargoes. Coal and grain are being taken in chutes 
from the vessels to the great storehouses; oil is 
pumped from the holds into tanks; parts of giant ma¬ 
chines are lifted to shore by derricks. Everywhere 
are boxes, barrels, and crates! Where do they all 
come from? 

The Rhineland is one of the richest manufacturing 
regions in Europe, and Cologne is one of its chief trade 
centers. If we could look inside the piles of boxes and 
cases on the wharves and at the railway station, we 
should find a great variety of wares. 

From Barmen and Elberfeld, to the northeast, come 
costly silks and ribbons, cottons and laces. From 
Solingen, near by, is brought the famous cutlery prized 
all over Europe since the Middle Ages. The Ruhr 
Valley ships vast quantities of coal, iron, petro¬ 
leum and all sorts of machinery from its great 
factories. 

From the north come the beautiful silks and velvets 
from Krefeld’s twenty thousand looms, which vie 
with those of Lyons. The region of Aix sends all sort 
of things—machinery, pins, needles, glass, mirrors, 
cloth and paper. All these and many more are 
brought to Cologne, to be sent to other parts of Europe, 
to America, and to the Orient. 

Steamers are unloading goods from other countries 
as well. They bring corn, flour and cotton from the 
United States; beef, hides, fruits and dye-stuffs from 
Central and South America. From Australia comes 
wool, and the East sends coffee, tea, raw silk, spices. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 23 

and beautiful rugs. A part of these are to be for¬ 
warded to other cities of Northern Europe. 

Besides Cologne’s trade in the wares of other cities, 
she has a number of manufactures of her own, one im¬ 
portant one being that of the perfume we call cologne. 
In all the shops we find it for sale, each merchant try¬ 
ing to convince us that his is the only genuine. We buy 
a case of it to take home; we need pay for none to use 
here, for everywhere samples are offered us. Some of 
the shops have cologne fountains, and the clerks, as 
we pass, ask if they may scent our handkerchiefs from 
the jets. 

ON THE RHINE 

Now we are ready for a trip up the Rhine. We take 
a steamer and are soon on our way to Coblenz. The 
river for a way is broad, with poplars and willows grow¬ 
ing along its banks. The glimpses we get of windmills 
remind us of Holland. 

See that little village floating by! What does it 
mean? It is nothing more than a huge raft, made of 
great logs, several layers thick, bound together.* It is 
five hundred feet long and two hundred wide. A 
broad floor covers it, and there are oars at the front and 
back. These are used only to keep the raft in the mid¬ 
dle of the stream. The oars are so large that it takes 
five or six men to handle each one. j 

In the middle of this river barge is a long, high plat¬ 
form from which the captain is able to see far ahead. 
There are several cabins on the raft, and in these live 
the raftsmen and their families. They seem very com¬ 
fortable there, too. The children play about the raft, 
while the mothers sit and knit or plait straw, or prepare 


24 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 



MTLKSELLERS OP COLOGNE 

the meals. These people seem to lack for nothings 
for on these barges we see cows and sheep and poultry. 

On another raft women are cooking, and on the odd¬ 
est stove! It is a box of sand with boards nailed up 
on two sides to keep off the wind. On a pole fastened 
to the board screen hangs a kettle over the fire. A 
^ very rude stove we think it, but these cooks seem per¬ 
fectly content. These log rafts will go down the Rhine 
to Holland, to be used for vessels, buildings and furni¬ 
ture. 

BONN 

Almost before we know it we are opposite Bonn, 
sixteen miles up the river from Cologne. This is the 
city of Beethoven, the celebrated composer. The house 








A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 25 

where he was born is fitted up as a museum with his in¬ 
struments, music, and other interesting things. In the 
cathedral square is a monument to his memory. 

Bonn is a pretty place. It has lines of grand chest¬ 
nuts and oaks, beautiful parks, and delightful drives 
leading into the country. People from o'ther countries 
think it beautiful, too, and many, many foreigners, 
especially English people, come here to live and send 
their children to school. Bonn is the stopping-place 
for tourists visiting the Seven Mountains just up the 
river. 

The University is famous. It occupies an old castle 
over a third of a mile in length. The palace gardens 
are now a park where students walk, and, in mild 
weather, often study. Bonn is the university which 
many of the nobility choose for their sons. Emperor 
William and his grandfather, the husband of Queen 
Victoria, were educated here. One may always know 
a nobleman’s son by his white cap. All the stu¬ 
dents wear little caps embroidered in gold and 
silver, some red, some blue, but only the nobility 
wear white. 

Here is a boating-party, now, of students, with their 
bright caps and long pipes. From their laughter and 
song they seem to be having a gay time. As the 
steamer passes they cry: ^^Hoch! Hoch! Bonn!” I 

We are now entering the most glorious part of the 
Rhine—the region of castles and vineyards and beau¬ 
tiful scenery, which will continue until we reach Mainz, 
a distance of a little over a hundred miles. The river 
grows narrower and swifter, and in some places is 
hemmed in on both sides bv low mountains. 



26 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


ANCIENT CASTLES 

The Rhineland castles were the homes of great bar¬ 
ons. Long, long ago these barons had grown very 
powerful. They owned a great deal of land and had 
soldiers to fight for them, for they were always at war. 
Each baron had to protect himself from the others, and 
so built his palace and fort in one, on a steep hillside, 
and called it his castle. 

The castle had a very high, thick wall around it for 
defense, while around the wall on the outside was a 
deep, wide moat, or ditch, which, if possible, was partly 
filled with water. To get to the castle, the enemy must 
jump into the moat and swim across. But while he 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

AN OLD ROBBER STRONGHOLD 









A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


27 


was doing this the soldiers within the castle could shoot 
their arrows at him and pour down upon him boiling 
tar from the top of the high walls. An enemy could be 
seen a long way off, for not only was the castle on a high 
hill, but it always had a tower called a watch-tower, 
from the top of which one could see all over the coun¬ 
try around. Here a watchman was kept day and night. 

The entrance to the castle was barred with a great 
iron or wooden gate, called a portcullis. When there 
seemed no danger the portcullis was drawn up by chains, 
so that the gateway was left open, but if in the distance 
a stranger was seen coming it was let down. ^^But how 
did the lord or his household cross the moat?’’ you ask. 
When they wished to enter,the drawbridge was let down. 
This drawbridge was fastened to the outside wall by 
chains somewhat as a trapdoor is fastened up. When 
let down it formed a bridge across the moat. 

And what did the castle do for a 3 "ard? It was 
usually built around a central courtyard, like the 
houses of Cuba. Something else, too, the castle was 
sure to have—a dungeon, or prison. Sometimes this 
was a room in the top of a very strong tower, but more 
often a pit away down at the bottom of the castle, 
below the ground. No light and very little air did it 
have. There was small hope of ever getting out 0£ 
such a place. 

The Rhine barons were very wealthy, as well as 
powerful. They owned most of the land along the 
river between Bonn and Mainz, and they not only 
claimed the land, but looked upon the Rhine itself, and 
all its branches, as belonging entirely to them. All 
ships that passed, therefore, had to pay a toll or tax 


28 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

to go through the barons’ possessions. From his 
watch-tower each baron kept a sharp lookout for any 
vessel. When a ship came opposite the castle the lord 
demanded his toll. If this was refused, the baron often 
seized the rich cargo and cast the merchant and men 
into his dungeon. 

The merchants looked upon the barons as thieves, 
and called them Rauhritter, or Robber Barons. It 
was against these Robber Barons that Cologne and 
other towns united in the Hanseatic League. Now the 
power of the Rhine barons is broken, and most of 
their castles, as we see, are in ruins, but perched upon 
the hilltops the towers and crumbling walls of these 
old strongholds make a beautiful picture. 

Now we are opposite the Seven Mountains on the east 
bank. Here is the high peak of the Drachenfels, or 
Dragon’s Height, the view from whose summit is said 
to be the finest along the Rhine.‘ We have heard 
something of the great German poem of the Niebel- 
ungen. The Drachenfels is connected with that story. 

We pass under Ehrenbreitstein, a mighty fortress, 
and then in a twinkling we are at 

COBLENZ 

We get a beautiful view of the city as soon as we pass 
the mouth of the Mosel, which flows from the west to 
meet the Rhine. We have noticed for some distance 
that the Rhine has a greener tinge, and as we look at 
the Mosel we understand the cause. 

Coblenz is even older than Cologne. The Romans 
named it Confluentia, which means a meeting—that 
is, of the two rivers. From this comes ^^Coblenz.” 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze COBLENZ 








































30 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

We pay a visit to the old Mosel bridge, built of stone 
hundreds of years ago by one of the Electors, for Co¬ 
blenz was once the home of the Archbishop-Elector of 
Treves. Close by is what was originally his palace, 
but is now a picture-gallery. It has not, however, so 
fine a collection as some of the other galleries of Ger¬ 
many. 

Near where the Mosel joins the Rhine stands one of 
the finest monuments of its kind in the world; it is a 
bronze equestrian statue of Emperor William I., whose 
memory every German loves and honors. We had an 
excellent view of it from the steamer. 

Not far away is the quaint old Church of St. Castor, 
which was once on an island, now joined to the main¬ 
land. Here is buried St. Ritza, who long ago lived in 
a cell at the foot of a castle across the river. There 
were no bridges then. Every night, the legend says, 
St. Ritza peeled the bark from a willow twig and with 
the help of this as a wand, walked across the river to 
attend mass the next morning at St. Castor. To St. 
Castor came also the three sons of Emperor Charle¬ 
magne, to divide their father’s kingdom into what we 
know as Germany, Italy and France. 

It is only a little way along the Rhine quay to the 
bridge of boats. All kinds of river craft ply up and 
down the Rhine and Mosel. Some are on their wav to 
Cologne and the cities of Holland, some are going up the 
river to Mainz and other points, while still others bring 
their cargoes to Coblenz or carry away the Mosel and 
Rhine wines made in this region. 

The cultivation of grapes and the making of wine 
are the two chief occupations of the Mosel Valley and 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


31 


the country around Coblenz. Fishing, however, is 
an important calling here, and at all times of the 
day one sees the odd little boats of the fishermen. 

EHRENBREITSTEIN FORTRESS 

We cross over the bridge of boats to the great rock- 
fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. ^^Broad Rock of Honor” 
the name means. Next to Gibraltar in Spain, Ehren¬ 
breitstein was long the strongest fort in Europe. It 
was once an old robber castle. When the Germans 
wished to strengthen the fortifications of Coblenz, this 
hill rising four hundred feet above the Rhine seemed 
just the place for a mighty fortress. 

The way up to the citadel is by a winding road built 
on a foundation of solid masonry. At short distances 
along it are great gateways, to be closed in time of 
siege. The road winds in such a way that every inch 
of it is guarded by the powerful guns of the fort. 
From the terrace at the top we look far up the beauti¬ 
ful Mosel, and up and down the Rhine. 

The fortress is built of massive stone, with very 
thick walls, and is large enough to hold a hundred thou¬ 
sand men. The tops of the buildings are covered with 
ten feet of earth to keep the shells of an enemy from 
piercing them. There are men at work now mowing 
the grass grown on this thick soil. Belonging to the 
fortress are storehouses for arms and provisions, bar¬ 
racks where the army men live, and training grounds 
where they practice. 

The troops are drilling now on the field, where a great 
many manikins are set up. These are heavy forms 
shaped like men and mounted on rockers. Each is 


32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

charged by a foot-soldier with bayonet, sword, or mus¬ 
ket held by the muzzle. The manikin bobs and dodges, 
and is extremely hard to down. In this practice the 
young soldier learns to strike with great skill. 

The artillery practice is equally interesting. Wood¬ 
en figures of mounted men are drawn very swiftly 
across the field. In the moment it takes them to pass 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

EIIRENBREITSTEIN 


the horseman must gallop into position and fire. The 
soldiers also practice making a dash to a certain point 
which they imagine is to be held from an enemy. 
With these daily drills the German soldier becomes 
verv skillful. 








A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 33 

Such stores of guns and provisions as are collected 
here!—five hundred cannons and fifty thousand fire¬ 
arms! It is calculated that without a pound more food 
the provisions already here would last the garrison of 
eight thousand men for ten years. There is an abundant 
supply of water, too, for wells have been dug within 
the fortress. What a siege Ehrenbreitstein could with¬ 
stand! Indeed, it is doubtful if it could ever be cap¬ 
tured. It was made thus strong because it once 
guarded the frontier next to France, as well as the 
Rhine, so it was the key to the door of Western Germany. 

Coblenz has a royal palace where the grandmother 
of the present Emperor passed a part of each year, for 
it was here she had lived when her husband was mili¬ 
tary governor of the region. The palace was built 
for one of the old Electors and has rich hangings, fres¬ 
coes, and paintings. One room has beautiful tapes¬ 
tries given by the French king to Frederick the Great. 
Fountains, flowers and fine old trees make the grounds 
delightful. The royal stables are used for cavalry 
barracks. 

RHINE PROMENADE 

From behind the palace, the Rhine Promenade 
stretches for two miles along the river. It is really 
a beautiful garden sloping toward the river, with trees, 
fountains, arbors, and statues. Several times a day 
and all the evening, in fine weather, there is music. 
This pleasant spot was planned by the Emperor’s 
grandmother, and, next to the fortress, attracts more 
visitors than anything else in the city. 

We choose the evening for our visit. The band 
plays 'The Watch on the Rhine” and other German 


34 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

airs. It is like fairyland. Everywhere are happy 
voices. Within the arbors are groups chatting over 
their coffee or wine, while others stroll up and down 
and view the scene. Hundreds of stars peep down 
into the mirror of the Rhine. The bridge of moonlight 
makes us almost believe we are back in the days of the 
Nixies. 

The Nixies were water-spirits who were believed to 
live in the deep rivers of Germany. The Rhine was 
their favorite home. Once there was a festival in one 
of the villages close by, to which, we are told, three 
Nixies came, all dressed in white, with flowers in their 
hair. 

When these fairy guests left the dance they charmed 
away with them three youths. The Nixies tripped 
over the Rhine on a moonbeam bridge and beckoned 
the youths, who followed, thinking the water was a 
bright road. When in the middle the Nixies sank and 
drew the youths under. Only three red streaks were 
seen the next morning. 

THE RHINE AGAIN 

We are once more on the Rhine, on our way from 
Coblenz to Bingen. Soon the castle of Stolzenfels 
comes into view. Stolzenfels means ^Troud Rock,’’ 
and a very fitting name it is, too, for it stands four hun¬ 
dred feet above the river. Emperor William is the 
owner of this old castle—not old, either, for, except the 
foundation walls, it has been rebuilt, as nearl}^ like the 
ancient castle as possible. The old building stood a 
thousand years ago and was one of the strongest robber 
castles on the Rhine, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


35 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 


THE LORELEI 


A little farther on, in the narrowest and deepest part 
of the river, is the most famous spot, perhaps, of all the 
Rhine. Artists have painted it, poets have sung of it, 
and boatmen have dreaded it. It is the Lorelei, or 
•^Maiden Rock,^’ a dark cliff rising four hundred and 
fifty feet above the river. The depth and narrowness 
of the stream, and its sharp turn at the fort of the cliff, 
together with a sunken ledge of rock, make a whirlpool 
here, which used to sink many boats and cause the 
loss of many lives. 












36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

Long ago when in the evening the white foam heat 
upon the rocks, and the pale moonlight rested on the 
cliff above, people said they could see the golden hair 
and snowy shoulders of a siren, or water-maiden, who 
sat combing her long locks and singing a song so sweet 
that the sailors of passing boats forgot their danger and 
were swallowed up in the angry waters. 

And now comes into view the famous castle of Rhein- 
stein; ^^Rock of the Rhine,’’ the name means. It is one 
of the many summer residences of the Emperor. 

It is with relief that we pass through the rapids called 
Binger Loch, or Hole, for once no boatman passed its 
whirlpool without first going to some shrine and making 
a vow. Even now large rafts must be steered through 
it with the utmost care. ^The Hole” is caused by the 
narrowness of the rocky bed. It took hundreds of 
years to widen the channel, and so great was the rejoic¬ 
ing when it was finished that a monument 'was set up 
on shore. The passage is now quite safe for steamers. 

Just beyond the ^'Hole” lies Bingen, the village of so 
many memories and legends. It is a busy town of 
eight thousand inhabitants, with a fine new winter har¬ 
bor and wharves. The making of potash is an impor¬ 
tant industry here. Everywhere about the town are 
vineyards, and some of the most famous and costly 
wines in the world are made in the neighborhood. 

On the opposite side of the river towers one of the 
finest monuments in Europe. It is the National Mon¬ 
ument, commemorating Germany’s victor}^ over France 
It represents '^Germania” as a woman holding a crown 
and sword with laurel leaves. On the Rhine side of 
the pedestal is pictured ^The Watch on the Rhine,” 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


37 


and part of the hymn is cut upon it. The monument, 
one hundred feet high, stands upon the summit of a 
wooded hill, seven hundred and forty feet above the 
river, and can be seen at a great distance. As the 
steamers pass by many of the passengers turn their 
glasses toward the monument. 

At Bingen we hire a river boat and row out to the 
Mouse Tower,of which we have all heard so many 
times. It stands on a lonely rock in the Rhine. Some¬ 
thing like eight hundred years ago it was built here for 
atoll-tower. This is its story: 

Once on a time there was a terrible famine in the land. 
Everywhere people were starving, but a rich lord. 
Bishop Hatto, had plenty of grain stored in his barns. 
The poor people begged him for a few grains to feed 
their starving children. Lord Hatto was very angry, 
but finally told them to come on a certain day to his 
barns. 

The poor peasants, thinking he had relented, flocked 
to him by hundreds. When all were within the barns, 
the cruel Hatto locked the doors and set fire to the 
buildings. 

'‘In faith, ’tis an excellent bonfire,” quoth he, 

"And the country is greatly obliged to me 
For ridding it in these times forlorn 
Of rats that only consume the corn.” 

When the cries of his victims came to his ears, he 
laughed and said: ''Hear the rats squeal!'' 

Soon a servant came and told his master that mice 
were eating his corn, and another cried that an army 
of ten thousand rats was approaching, to eat up every¬ 
thing. Hatto was terribly frightened and cried: "I 


38 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

will row to niy tower in the Rhine; they cannot reach 
me there He retreated to his tower, and barred 
the windows and made fast the door, but soon he heard 
the rats on all sides. 

In at the windows and in at the door, 

And through the walls by thousands they pour, 

And down through the ceiling and up through the floor, 

From the right and the left, behind and before. 

From within and without, from above and below. 

And all at once at the Bishop they go. 

' In the morning Hatto was found dead in his tower, 
gnawed by the rats or, as some say, frightened to 
death. 

Between Bingen and Mainz the mountains hem the 
Rhine into a valley so narrow that there is scarcely 
more than room for the river, narrow roadway and 
railway on either side. 

MAINZ 

Mainz lies at another bend in the river. It is called 
by several names. The French, who held it for a time, 
speak of it as ^^Mayence,” and many atlases give it 
^^Mentz,’’ but the Germans always call it Mainz, 
and since it is a German city, we, too, will call it 

Mainz. 

The new wharves first claim our attention, for Mainz, 
like manv other Rhine cities, has had to furnish new 
means for carrying on her growing trade. She is win¬ 
ning back the old name of Golden Mainz, which she 
bore in the days of the Hanse Towns. A few steps 
bring us to the Rhine Promenade three hundred feet 
wide extending along the river. It is not so beau¬ 
tiful, however, as the Promenade of Coblenz. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 39 

The Dom is one of the objects of interest in Mainz. 
There is mention of a cathedral fourteen centuries ago, 
though the present building of red sandstone is not 
more than half that old. It has seen many changes, 

however. It 
has had six fires, 
and has been 
used as a fort¬ 
ress, barracks, 
cavalry stable, 
powder maga¬ 
zine, provision 
storehouse, and 
even a slaughter 
house, as well as 
a church. 

Close by the 
cathedral stands 
the monument 
to Mainz^s great¬ 
est citizen — a 
fine statue of 
Gutenberg, who 
is said bv the 
Germans to be 
the inventor of 
printing. The 
square in which it stands is named for him. Here in 
Mainz also is preserved the house in which he was 
born, and his first printing office, where he worked so 
busily with his new types. 

His invention is one of the greatest ever made, for 



Loaned by Mia. W. H. Hintze 

RHEINSTEIN CASTLE 







40 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

to him we owe the millions of books and newspapers 
we have today. Before that time there had been a 
rude sort of printing done, by cutting the letters for a 
whole page on one block, but this was very slow and 
costly. 

It is claimed that Gutenberg thought out the plan of 
cutting each letter on a type by itself, so that when one 
book was printed the types could be put together to 
make the words of any other book and thus be used 
over and over again. All modern type has followed 
this pattern. This plan seems a very simple thing to 
us, but the world waited centuries for a man able to 
see how it could be done. 

The first book Gutenberg printed was a Bible of 
forty-two lines. That was four hundred and fifty 
years ago. Now he is honored by the world, and one of 
his books alone is valued at $50,000. Then, however, 
he was friendless and in want. His office and presses 
were taken from him, and many people declared he was 
in league with the devil. 

The citadel, or fortress of Mainz, is built where the 
first Roman camp stood, for Mainz was a Roman town, 
and many interesting Roman relics have been found 
here. The old Elector's Palace has a fine collection 
of these. Here are the old wooden piles of the bridge 
the Romans built across the Rhine two thousand years 
ago. The piles have been put together in their proper 
positions. What an interesting study they would be 
for the boys at home who find Csesar’s description of 
his Rhine bridge hard to understand when read in Latin! 

The contents of a Roman shoemaker^s shop dug up 
in Mainz show us how a Roman cobbler worked. Here 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 41 

are his sandals, leather, and tools. Many tools, weap¬ 
ons and household articles found in the neighborhood 
are a part of the collection. 

In the library are seen many of Gutenberg’s books, 
for besides its 180,000 volumes it is rich in rare old 
•manuscripts, and books made during the early years of 
printing. These, of course, are never given out to be 
read, but are carefully kept in cases. A full set of old 
coins of Mainz, from the time of Charlemagne, belongs 
to the library. 

The eight thousand soldiers who guard Mainz have 
their barracks close to the palace, and use the palace 
grounds for drill. Mainz is a very important fortress, 
for, situated at the mouth of the Main, it guards all the 
valley of that river, as well as the Rhine. 

A drive through the pleasure grounds gives us a fine 
view of the vineyards on every hill-slope. Mainz is 
the very heart of the vineyard region. All along the 
Rhine, since we passed Bonn, we have seen vineyards 
with their terraces and winding paths, but they have 
been at a distance. Now we may see at close hand 
a real vineyard, and a grape harvest. 

RHINELAND VINEYARDS 

Some of the vineyard slopes are so steep that stone 
walls have had to be built to keep the soil from being 
washed down by the heavy rains. As we ride along 
we even see places where the vines are planted in bas¬ 
kets, to keep the earth in place. 

One can never quite understand how much care a 
vineyard requires until he has seen the vine-tenders and 
harvesters at their hard task. 



Loaned by Mrs. W, H. Hiiitze 4 VINEYARD COUNTRY 








A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


43 


After the walls are laid, they must be kept in repair. 
Some are twenty feet in height, while the terraces they 
protect are often not much wider than this. It some¬ 
times takes forty or fifty terraces to reach the hill-top. 
The paths, too, have to be repaired after every heavy 
rain or hard frost. All the dressing for the soil, and 
often the soil itself, must be carried up by men and 
women. For this they strap deep baskets on their 
backs. Sometimes the path is so steep that the poor 
workers have to crawl up on their hands and knees. 

The vines are carefully tied to stakes from four to 
six feet high. In Februar}^ they must be pruned, and 
later comes the work of hoeing and weeding, which 
lasts till nearlv autumn. 

The vintage time, which begins about the last of 
October, is now in some vineyards about over, yet on 
most of the hillsides some of the laborers are still at 
work. We stop at one of the smaller vineyards, for 
here the work is more likely to be carried on in the old- 
fashioned way. 

As our carriage draws up, the master appears and 
greets us with '^Gruess Gott/' which means no more 
than Good-afternoon,’^ but which makes us feel quite 
welcome. He seems pleased when we ask to go into 
the vineyard and watch the harvesting. Half a dozen 
little heads, some with shy faces, some with roguish 
ones, peep at us from around a corner. 

As we pass a clump of trees the vineyard comes into 
sight. Pickers are scattered over the hillside. Men 
and women are coming down the paths with deep 
baskets of precious fruit upon their backs, while others 
are returning with their baskets empty. 


44 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


Our host tells us to go anywhere we like and pick all 
the grapes we care for. He fears there is not much 
choice fruit left, for this is the last of the vintage and, 
if nothing happens, the vines will be cleared by night. 
We eat for a time of the delicious fruit, and then help 



Loaned by Mrs. W, H. Hintze 

FRANKFORT 

gather to take to the presses, until the last vine is 
finished. Our host smilingly tells us his vines were 
never cleared so quickly before, and asks us to stay to 
the merrymaking in the evening. 

We accept the invitation, and in the meantime go to 
see the presses. Our friend does not own a modern 
press, but follows the old-fashioned custom of tramp- 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 45 

ling the grapes. Great tubs are placed above vats and 
are reached by ladders up the sides. Into these tubs 
the grapes are emptied, and small boys jump up and 
down on the fruit with their bare feet or wooden shoes 
until the juice is trampled out and drained into the 
vats below. It is drained again and allowed to ferment 
and become clear before being put into casks or bottles. 

Our host and his helpers fire off their pistols and beat 
tin pans to make known to their neighbors that the 
vintage is finished. No wonder they rejoice that a 
time of rest has come, for during the harvest the work 
begins at daylight and lasts as long as the pickers can 
see at night. At the busiest times, or when help is 
scarce, the pressing is done at night. 

A RHINELAND COUNTRY HOME 

Now let us go to the house. Great strings of yellow 
corn hang around the door to dry, and vines run over 
the windows, while the geese and the children share the 
dooryard. What an easy time these children must have 
dressing, without the trouble of buttons and hooks, for 
they wear—even the little boys—a slip made all in one 
piece. This family, like all the people of the Rhine¬ 
land, are very cordial, and welcome us to their home. 

The stove is the chief article of furniture in the 
living-room, and that is built into the wall much like 
those we saw in North Germany. Benches take the 
place of chairs, and chests serve as closets. The floor 
is carefullv sanded and at one side we can still see a 
part of the pattern. The broom stands beside the door. 
It is only a bunch of tiny birch twigs tied around a 
larger branch for a handle. 



46 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


In a short time supper is served. We eat from the 
bare oak table. Black-bread, sausage, milk, hot pota¬ 
toes and smoked goose form our supper. There is no 
cake; the smoked goose is the chief dainty of the meal. 



Loaned by Mrs. W, H. Hintze 


GUTENBERG MEMORIAL AT FRANKFORT 


In the Rhineland, as in maii}^ parts of Germany, cake 
comes upon the table only two or three times a year, 
except in very wealthy families. 

Soon the neighbors begin to come in, to help celebrate 
the close of the harvest. Rockets are sent up, pistols 
are again fired, and wheels of light and fireballs are sent 
off. We stay till the dancing begins, then bid our 






































A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 47 

friends good-by and return to Mainz by moonlight, 
taking with us baskets of choice grapes. 

We are better able, after our day in the vineyard, to 
appreciate the bustle and wealth of Mainz’s trade. It 
is almost entirely a trade in wine, for Mainz is the 
greatest wine market of the Rhine. Here are brought 
the famous red and white wines from the country 
around. The region from Bingen to Mainz produces 
the finest wines in the world, some of which keep per¬ 
fectly for half a century. The commoner wines go to 
nearly all the countries of Europe and to America, but 
the finest qualities seldom leave Germany. The wine of 
the most famous vineyard of the Rhine is never sold 
except at auction, so one wishing it must be there 
himself or send his agent. 

FRANKFORT 

An east-bound train takes us to Frankfort, twenty 
miles away on the river Main. It lies in a plain, sur¬ 
rounded by low mountains. After passing the hills, 
our way lies through a beautiful orchard and forest 
land. We find Frankfort a place of 250,000 inhabi¬ 
tants. 

We pass to the central part of town. The narrow 
streets here tell us that this is the old part, although 
the principal business streets have been widened, and 
look very modern, with their fine buildings. Frank¬ 
fort is laid out like so many other Rhineland cities— 
the old part in the center, surrounded by pleasure 
grounds or boulevards, where the ancient fortifications 
once stood, and the newer part beyond. 

Our first visit is to the old Horsemarket. At one 



48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

side stands a monument to printing, for Frankfort was 
one of the first cities to encourage that art. The cen¬ 
tral figure is, of course, Gutenberg, with a set of types 
in his hand. 

We pass on to the Zeil, the busiest and one of the 
handsomest streets in Frankfort. It is lined with 
shops, and very attractive they are, too. Most of 
the shop buildings are large and modern and show all 
sorts of wares—perfume, jewelry, the gold and silver 
thread used so much on students^ caps and peasant 
women’s bodices, tapestry, bronzes and bric-a-brac— 
just those things which tourists wish as souvenirs of 
their visit. We notice the great number of straw hats 
and baskets. These come mainly from the Black For¬ 
est, where straw-plaiting is one of the chief occupa¬ 
tions. 

One has not visited Frankfort unless he has been 
to the Goethe House, where the foremost German poet 
was born. Frankfort never had a son of whom she 
was more proud, and no spot in the city is oftener vis¬ 
ited by travelers than this. The city, however, does 
not own the house. A society whose members are 
scattered over the whole world bought it, out of love 
for the poet’s memory. 

Everything is as it was when Goethe lived here, 
nearly a hundred and fifty years ago. On the ground 
floor are the old-fashioned kitchen and dining-room. 
Above is the Weimar room, where the Duke of Weimar 
slept when he visited Goethe’s parents. It was at this 
duke’s court that Goethe lived so many years as an 
honored guest. The most interesting rooms are the 
poet’s study and the room where he was born. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


49 



Quaint old streets lead to the Roemer and Roemer- 
berg—the town hall and marketplace of the old town. 
No spot in Frankfort, perhaps in Germany, has seen 
sights so grand. For hundreds of years, in olden times, 
Frankfort was 
the city where 
a new emperor 
was chosen. 

When this hap¬ 
pened Frankfort 
was indeed a gay 
place, and the 
Roemer the cen¬ 
ter of its gaiety. 

Frankfort 
Cathedral i s 
very, very old. 

We visit the 
Election Chapel 
and notice the 
cloisters, the 
stained glass 
and frescoes, but 
after seeing Col¬ 
ogne’s beautiful 
cathedral we do 
not find this one 
so interesting.. 

A little way up the river is the old bridge of red sand¬ 
stone, which has stood for hundreds of years. Very 
sad sights it must have seen, for a crucifix and a cock 
still mark the spot where criminals were thrown into the 


Loaned bj’ Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

THE GOETHE HOUSE 

















50 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

river. In sight of the bridge is a building which marks 
the site of the ^^Great Emperor’’ Charlemagne’s pal¬ 
ace. Besides the stone bridge Frankfort has four 
others across the Main. 

One of the interesting buildings in Frankfort is the 
first home of the Rothschilds, the famous bankers. 
This four-story building opening upon the street was 
the house with the red shield over its door, from which 
the family took its name—Rothschild, which means 
^^Red Shield.” 

The founder of this famous Jewish familv was An- 
selm, a coin dealer. His son, Mayer Anselm, found 
work in a Frankfort bank, where he showed consider¬ 
able business talent. On his father’s death the son 
took charge of his business. He prospered and won 
great respect. He was soon called Anselm von Roth¬ 
schild, or Anselm of the Red Shield. It was his ser¬ 
vices to the Landgrave of Hesse which brought him 
fame outside his own land. 

This ruler of Hesse had won vast wealth by ^Tiring 
out” his Hessian troops to England in the American 
Revolution. When the French army came near Frank¬ 
fort the landgrave was very anxious about his money. 
He begged Anselm to hide it for him, agreeing that he 
himself would take all the risk. Anselm dropped the 
money-bags to the bottom of his well. The French 
plundered his house and took away everything of 
value, but they did not find the landgrave’s money. 

Anselm afterward loaded the money on a mule and 
sent it to London, where it was invested. The invest¬ 
ments proved profitable and at the end of nine years 
the Rothschilds gave the landgrave back four times 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


51 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

ROTHSCHILD BANK, AND THE JEWISH SYNAGOGUE 

the sum that Aiiselum had dropped into the 
well, besides $700,000 interest. 

The landgrave was so delighted that he told 
the story all over Europe, and soon the Rothschilds 
became known as ^The Court Bankers.” 

Anselm had five sons whom he started in branch 
























52 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

banks in other cities, and the family soon grew to 
be the foremost bankers in the world. They are a 
united family. No one of them begins any great 
undertaking without first consulting the rest, for 
this was the father’s dying request. Although the 
sons lived in fine mansions, Anselm’s wife would 
never leave the old home with its sign of the Red 
Shield. 

After a time the business had to be moved to larger 
quarters, but the present banking house is very plain 
—almost bare, in fact. It stands where the old gate 
separating Boerne Street once stood. 

It was the Rothschilds who first made Frankfort 
the principal banking center of Europe. It is, next 
to Berlin, the chief business center of Germany. If 
Cologne is the city of churches, Frankfort may be 
called the citv of banks, since there are one hundred 
and seventy-five banking houses here. This immense 
business makes Frankfort the richest citv for its size 
in the world. 

The prosperity of the city is due largely to its Jewish 
population. The Jews have made Frankfort their 
home since the thirteenth century, and have shown 
superior business talent, and taste, and much interest 
in their city’s welfare. 

Frankfort seems more like an American town than 
any other Rhineland city we have visited. Its people 
are well dressed, its homes beautiful, its business streets 
modern and attractive, its public buildings elegant, 
its shops interesting, and its pleasure-grounds delight¬ 
ful. The return to Mainz is made by steamer down 
the Main. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO ftOUTTT OERMANY 


53 


WORHS 

At Mainz onr river voyage ends, but as our train flies 
along to Worms we are still in sight of the beautiful 
stream we feel so loth to leave. 

On entering Worms the first object of interest is 
the monument to Luther, of whom we heard so much 
in North Germany. It took twelve years to complete 



LUTHKR MEMORIAL AT WORMS 


this work, and its cost was $80,000. There are a central 
pedestal and seven smaller ones grouped on a large 
platform. Upon the central shaft is a large bronze 
statue of Luther, eleven feet high, and upon the others 
are figures of some of the great reformers. 



























54 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


Worms thus honors Luther because it was here 
he stood before the emperor and all the chief princes 
of Germany to be tried for his life. Close to the 
monument is a fine large house which stands upon the 
site of the old Hall of Bishops, where his trial took 
place. 

We take our lunch in a little old-fashioned inn. The 
place seems almost dark as we enter, but soon objects 
grow clearer. The room is quaint and old, as is every¬ 
thing in it—just like the town itself. An old woman, 
with a black silk handkerchief tied into the peculiar 
headdress so fashionable here, fries our fish, and the 
pretty daughter waits on us. Her hair hangs in long 
braids, and on her feet are wooden shoes, which clatter, 
clatter over the floor. Along with the fish are served 
a sausage nearly as big as one’s arm, black-bread with 
caraway seeds in it, kraut, milk, wine, and—cherry 
soup, for not far from Worms begins the great cherry 
region. 

Worms Cathedral is one of the finest of all the 
smaller German cathedrals. It has two domes and 
two choirs, and at each corner a slender round tower. 
The open space in front is connected with the legend 
of Siegfried, of whom you have heard. In fact. Worms 
is full of interesting spots associated in one way or 
another with this hero. It was here he wooed the 
Princess Kriemhild, and here he met his death. 

HEIDELBERG 

And now Heidelberg and the beautiful Neckar 
are before us, the city squeezed in between the hill 
and the blue waters of the river below. 




A LITTLE JOrilXEY TO SOI^Ttl GERMANY 55 

Heidelberg, with iti thirty-five thousand people, 
has one principal street a mile and a half long, running 
parallel with the river. The streets are paved with 
cobblestones, and are very picturesque with their 
steep-roofed brick houses and their low cottages with 
iron-barred shutters. A number of women pass along 
with huge baskets on their heads—here a washer¬ 
woman with the weekly wash of some rich family, 
there a peasant bringing to town her garden-stuff. 
Beneath the baskets are little flat cushions, worn on 
the head. 

Around a corner stand three women with basket- 
headdresses, talking. They cannot be whispering 
secrets, surely, for their big baskets keep them from 
coming close enough for that. They wave their hands 
and even nod their heads, as though they had entirely 
forgotten their loads. 

Although Heidelberg has many attractions, the 
University and the Castle overshadow everything 
else. 

We have seen castles all along the Rhine, but only 
at a distance. Now we shall visit the most famous 
one of all Germany, which was for hundreds of years 
the home of the Counts Palatine, who ruled this part 
of Germany and were always among the Seven Electors. 

The castle, reached by winding, shaded paths. ^ 
consists of a group of twelve immense buildings sir- 
rounding a courtyard. These buildings, which are 
palaces, towers, and strongholds, were built one after 
another by the Palatine princes through a period cf 
four hundred years, and show almost every style of 
architecture. Next to the beautiful Alhambra of 


56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOI^TH GERMANY 


Spain, the castle of Heidelberg is the grandest ruin 
of the Middle Ages. 

We pass through the castle gate into the gardens. 
Herp is a wonderful collection of trees belonging to the 
University. From the gardens a gate leads into the old 



i 


lilOlDKl.IJKRG AND ITS CASTLE 


fortress which guarded the castle. At the corner beyond 
is an old round-tower from which we get our finest 
view. From the castle to the foot of the hill is a 
dense forest, beyond which lies the beautiful Neckar 
with Heidelberg beside it, while the blue Rhine is 
seen miles away, with the hills beyond 













A LITTLE JOURN^EY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


57 


Looking up to the castle across the wide moat, one 
sees only bare, grim walls, with no ornament, for 
the outside walls were intended only for defense. 
Returning to the other side of the gardens, we cress 
the bridge over the old moat and stand before the 
great portcullis made of heavy beams of wood. It is 
fastened up now, for in these days of peace there is 
no need to bar the castle gate. Leaving the gateway, 
we pass under the old watch-tower into the courtyard. 
The countless carvings and pillars and statues here 
make up for the plainness of the outer walls. 

The Ruprecht Palace has on its walls the emblem 
of the eagle, which shows that the builder was offered 
the emperor’s crown. Over the entrance are a garland 
of roses borne by angels and a pair of compasses, 
showing the palace was placed under the protection 
of the Virgin. In this part of the courtyard is a famous 
well and over it a cover whose pillars were brought 
from an old palace of Charlemagne. 

Beyond are the library and women’s building, and 
next the palace built by Frederick V. for his wife, 
Elizabeth, who was the daughter of an English king. 

On the side next the river is the Frederick Palace, 
four stories high. Its walls are ornamented with 
many statues. Beyond the palace is the celebrated 
eight-sided tower which is shown in nearly all the 
pictures of the palace. 

And now we come to the Otto Henrich Palace, the 
finest part of the old castle. It would take too long 
to tell of the carvings and statues and beautiful works 
of art which adorn its courtyard walls. The statues 
represent the qualities which should belong to a 


58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

princely house—force, courage, justice, faith and 
charity—and the gods who rule the fate of all. This 
palace contains the Emperor’s Room and the Electors’ 
Rooms, all very grand. On the second story is the 
splendid dining-room where the most illustrious of 
German princes often feasted, and many an emperor 
was a guest. 

In the castle cellar is the famous Heidelberg tun. 
This is a huge wine-cask, resting on its side, which 
holds sixteen hundred barrels. It has been full but 
three times. In olden days, when the wine of the 
year’s vintage had been poured into it, a dance was 
held on the platform above, but for a hundred and 
thirty years now it has held no wine, and the happy 
times are gone. 

We enter the gardens again and visit the ^‘Blown- 
T^p Tower.” The soldiers of Louis XIV., the great 
French king, held Heidelberg for a time, but had to 
give it up. Before they left they set fire to the town, 
burned the palace, and blew up the fortifications. The 
King of France was so pleased that he had a medal 
struck off with these words on it: ^^Heidelberg is 
fallen.” So strong were the walls of this tower that 
instead of being crumbled into ruins they half broke 
away and fell into the moat in a single mass, 
which lies here to this day. The walls are twenty 
feet thick. 

Back of the castle and higher up on the hillside ex¬ 
tends a terrace, from which one can look down upon 
the castle and gardens. Close by are the castle res¬ 
taurant and the music pavilion where the orchestra 
is playing ^^Old Heidelberg.” 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


59 


We return by way of the University, which is fa¬ 
mous the world over for its excellent instructors. It 
is the oldest university of Germany, having been 
founded over six hundred years ago. 

HEIDELBERG STUDENTS 

Very gay do the students look, with their little gold- 
embroidered caps worn jauntily on one side of the head. 
Their dress, too, is striking. Some wear bright jackets 
with facings of red and ^^ellow, with white trousers; 
others, blue, gray, or green suits, and others black vel¬ 
vet. Their boots reach the knee, and have very fanc}^ 
tops. 

There are three things a Heidelberg student never 
lacks—a cane, a pipe of enormous length, and a bull¬ 
dog. Yes—and scars; if there is any one thing he is 
proud of it is his scars and strips of courtplaster over 
his face. These marks of honor are received in the stu¬ 
dents’ duels. 

The German student seems to have an easy time. 
He may live where he pleases, for there are no halls 
connected with the University. He may do just about 
what he chooses. His courses are mostly lectures, 
and he may attend them or stay away. There are no 
roll-calls, no recitations,, and no examinations till the 
end of the course. 

Why, then, does he ever study? Ah! that final 
examination is what compels every ambitious student 
to do his best, because it means so much. If he fails, 
he will miss being graduated with his class, and more 
than that, he may never return to his own college, 
nor may he enter any other in Germany. 


60 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

Dueling is one of the chief features of the Univer¬ 
sity. If a student wishes to be a man of any import¬ 
ance he must join one of the many corps, or associa¬ 
tions. Before he is given full rights in these corps he 
must take part in a duel. There may or may not be a 
reason for fighting. The duels are held three times a 
week, and if two students have a quarrel they fight it 
out at one of these. If there is no one anxious to fight, 
two corps match men in a friendly way, and woe to the 
young student who tries to creep out when thus chosen! 

BADEN 

Baden is a fashionable summer resort, but we find it 
quiet, because the height of the fashionable season is 
past. Many visitors remain past the season because 
of the beauty and healthfulness of the place. 

The hot springs of Baden are one of its chief attrac¬ 
tions. The Drink Hall is built over the spot where 
the springs bubble up. Its pleasantest feature is the 
covered promenade three hundred feet in length. There 
we may walk and study the frescoes on the wall or view 
the scenery, while we wait for the water to cool a bit, 
for when it flows from the spring it has a temperature 
of more than 150^. 

Scores of people, like ourselves, are walking up and 
down and carrying their drinking cups in their hands; 
or they chat in groups, seated on the benches along 
the wall. Children play about on the graveled walks 
or primly take an airing with their maids. Towns¬ 
people come with pails and jugs and carry the water 
away, for it is one of the few things for which one does 
not have to pay. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GEUMAXY 


61 


Even at this season Baden has visitors from inanv 
countries. Yonder is a group of gay French people, 
though fewer French come now than before the war. 
FTere comes a stately Russian ladv—Baden, we are 

^ * 7 



(.vkWIOKSATION house at liADEN 


told, is a favorite resort of wealthy Russians. There 
is a little Greek chapel here in memory of a princess 
from that land. 

The enterprising people of Baden of course wish to 
offer all the attractions possible. The Conversation 
House is a sort of general meeting-place. Here in its 











62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

finely decorated hall on rainy days one may listen 
to the music which the weather makes impossible out¬ 
side. At other times an orchestra plays, morning, 
noon and evening, in the open-air bandstand near by. 

There is in Baden, too, a fine modern bathing estab¬ 
lishment fitted up with every luxury known to the 
bath. 

The beautiful scenery around the town is enough in 
itself to attract people to Baden. There are long av¬ 
enues lined with trees and swept daih" by old women 
with brooms; there are beautiful little streams with 
sparkling waterfalls, and an old castle overgrown with 
vines. Best of all, there are glorious views of the 
Black Forest, which lies almost at Baden’s door. One 
may ride through this forest on fine macadam roads, or 
spin along by rail, or tramp on foot, for foresters keep 
it free from all underbrush and dead limbs. 

In short, Baden is a delightful place to visit. Its 
mild climate, healthful springs and beautiful scener}^ 
call sixty thousand visitors here each year. 

STRASSBURQ 

From Baden our way lies acrosss the Rhine into 
Strassburg, once a French city, but now a part of Ger¬ 
many, and a place of 136,000 inhabitants. The cen¬ 
tral part of the city is an island formed by the Ill River 
and a canal into which the water of the river has been 
turned. The Ill flows into the Rhine several miles be¬ 
low and has a network of canals from the cit}^ to the 
Rhine. 

We go directly to the cathedral, famous throughout 
the world for its spire and its clock. As we near it the 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 63 

sandstone gleams a bright red in the sim. This ca¬ 
thedral, like that of Cologne, was built piecemeal, bi t 
was begun many years earlier. There was a time 
when a hundred thousand men were all at work to raise 
its beautiful towers. The front is the finest part, al¬ 
though it looks as though it had lost a part of one 
tower. 

A great artist of Germany planned it, as we suppose, 
with two towers, but the work stopped because the 
money gave out. Soon the architect died, and his son 
and grandson in turn worked on it till the towers were 
raised as high as the right-hand one extends. Then 
the last of the great architect’s family died, and the 
plan was lost. Other artists finished the left-hand 
tower, but the right-hand one stands without its spire. 
The front of the cathedral has a fine doorway, beau¬ 
tiful carvings and a wonderful round window forty 
feet in diameter. 

The most interesting part of the cathedral is the 
great clock. We visit it at noon, in order to see all its 
wonderful figures, but noon by the Strassburg clock, 
we must remember, is twenty-nine minutes after twelve 
b}^ Central Europe time. At twelve o’clock the twelve 
Apostles come out and march around a figure of Christ, 
while at one side a cock flaps its wings, stretches its 
neck, and crows. For the quarter-hour an angel strikes 
a bell, which he holds in his hand. The hour is told by 
a skeleton around which are Boyhood, Youth, Manhood 
and Age. Even the day of the week is told, for each 
morning a different god or goddess appears, beginning 
with Apollo, the Sun-god, for Sunday. 

The most wonderful thing of all about the clock is 


64 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 



that it does not have to be 
wound. It was built to run 
itself for years without number. 
The clockmaker who contrived all 
its wonderful machinery paid a 
terrible penalty for his genius. 
As soon as the clock was finished, 
the Strassburg magistrates sen¬ 
tenced him to death, for fear he 
might make one like it for some 


STRASSBURG CATHEDRAL 


other city. His life 
was finally spared, 
but both his eyes 
were put out. 

We climb the 
tower and look in 
all directions. Yon¬ 
der, two miles to 
the east, is the Rhine, 
and the Black For¬ 
est beyond. To the 
north and west are 
the ^^Blue Alsacian 
Mountains,’^ and 
away to the south 
rise the mountains 
of France. Here, 
near the door of the 
tower, is Geothe^s 
name cut by the 
poet himself when 
he was a gay young 










































A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOITTH GERMANY 65 

student in the Strassburg University. This great spire 
lacks only forty feet of being as high as those of 
Cologne. 

Across from the cathedral are several quaint old 
timbered houses, while close at hand is an ancient pal¬ 
ace built by a cardinal, but now used as a museum. 
Down past the Fish Market is the house where Goethe 
lived in his student days. We wander on past the 
house of the Governor of Alsace and the new palace for 
the Crown Prince, the oldest son of Emperor William. 
The palace has a dome over one hundred feet 
high. 

The park of Strassburg is called the Contades, after 
Marshal Contades, who laid it out. That reminds us 
of the favorite dish of Alsace and the Black Forest, 
and we go into one of the restaurants, where this and 
nothing else is served, and order—goose-liver pie. 

This dish was invented by Marshal Contades’s cook 
nearly a hundred and fifty years ago, and has become 
a national dish. There are a number of restaurants 
that make a specialty of it, and nearly all serve it. 
The peasants have a particular way of fattening the 
geese to make the liver large. Sometimes a single 
liver weighs two pounds, we are told. 

Strassburg University is well worth a visit. Strass¬ 
burg people claim that no other university of Germany 
has buildings so fine. Before the Franco-Prussian 
War it was the only complete university in France, ex¬ 
cept that of Paris. Its buildings were destroyed in 
the war, but have been rebuilt finer than before. It 
has something like a dozen buildings and is called 
Kaiser Wilhelm University. 


66 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTPI GERMANY 

Upon the outskirts of town is the orangery, laid out 
like a park, with winding walks, lakes and fountains, 
and its little Turkish summer-house, once belonging 
to the King of Bavaria. On the edge of town, too, 
stands one of the strongholds which guard the city, 
and connected with it are a water-tower and an arse¬ 
nal. This is one of the fourteen strong forts which 
form a girdle around the city, some at a distance of 
four or five miles. Besides these there is an inner line 
of forts, for Strassburg is a very important military 
post, guarding the upper Rhine. Strassburg’s garrison 
is twice as large as that of Cologne or Mainz. 

Over her canals and river Strassburg carries on a 
large trade with the rest of the Rhine region. All 
about the city are rich cotton and wooden factories, ma¬ 
chine shops and vineyards. Strassburg is also the 
center of the Black Forest trade. Here are brought 
the clocks, straw-goods, pottery, dolls and other wares 
of the Forest. From the Black Forest and the 
mountains of Alsace comes, also, the famous Strass¬ 
burg turpentine. The old way of obtaining it was 
to slit the trees on the south side and catch the resin in 
buckets as it oozed out. 

ALSACE-LORRAINE 

Strassburg is the capital of the rich provinces of 
Alsace and Lorraine which the Germans won from 
France in the last war with that country. The Ger¬ 
mans and French have for centuries struggled over 
Alsace-Lorraine. Until the war France had held the 
provinces for several hundred years, and it wounded 
her pride to give them up. Now that Germany owns 


A LITTLT] JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


67 


them, the Rhine is a German river instead of a bound¬ 
ary line. 

A tramp into the mountains gives us a chance to see 
a little more of this beautiful land. Its mountains 
have long been famous for their scenery, and are often 
called ^^The Blue Alsacian Mountains.’’ Poems have 
been written about them and music composed in their 
honor. There are a number of legends about old 
castles which stood here, but there are few ruins. This 
is because war has so often come to this region. 

There is one old castle however, where lived the 
^MGng of the Pipers.” All the musicians of the Upper 
Rhine looked upon him as their king, and paid him a 
yearly tax. He in turn protected them. Every year 
in September they met at the castle for a grand festival 
called the ^‘Day of the Fife,” and along with their 
playing settled all quarrels. 

In this part of Alsace the mountains are covered 
with forests of beech and pine, while the highest peaks 
have only grass, where large herds of cattle feed. The 
sunny slopes are given up to vineyards. Dairying and 
weaving are the work which occupies the people at this 
season of the year. 

THE BLACK FOREST 

From Strassburg we send our luggage ahead and, 
after crossing the Rhine again, take a tramp through 
the famous region of the Schwarzwald, or Black Forest 
—the quaintest and most picturesque part of all Ger¬ 
many. 

The Black Forest is a wooded district ninety miles 
long and forty wide, lying close to the Rhine and Lake 


68 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

Constance, and having numerous mountains and river 
valleys. It gets its name from the dark fir trees which 
here grow to a height of one hundred and sixty or 



A GIRL OF THE BLACK FOREST 


eighty feet. Besides the firs are many beeches and a 
few oaks. The forest lands yield chiefly timber, which 
is floated down the Murg and Kinzig rivers in rafts and 
carried down the Rhine to Holland. 





A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


69 


Much of this timber consists of the huge trunks of the 
silver fir a hundred or two hundred years old. This 
is very valuable for the sounding-boards of musical 
instruments, and is used also for boxes, packing cases, 
furniture, and shingles, as well as lumber for 
buildings. 

The great lumber merchants form a company and 
are called Schiffer or shippers. They own about six¬ 
teen thousand acres of forest. The government in¬ 
spects the forests every year, and requires that a certain 
part be left. The rest can be cut. In most parts 
after the timber is cut the forest is not replanted, but 
allowed to renew itself. 

The poor people are permitted to pick up wood only 
as a favor, and Monday is the particular day set apart 
for gathering it. Then may be seen old men, women 
and children coming down the ^teep slopes with bun¬ 
dles of fagots, or small sticks tied together and fastened 
on the back. Often the poor wood-gatherer is almost 
hidden by his huge load. 

It is from the Black Forest that the story of the Man 
in the Moon’^ comes. German children see instead of 
a man^s face in the moon an old man bent with the 
weight of a pack on his back. This is the story they 
are told: 

A man went on Sunday to the forest, to gather wood. 
He met on the way a giant, who said: Do you know 
what day it is?’’ Yes, but I do not care!” answered 
the man. 'A^ery well, then,” said the giant, ^'you 
must be punished. You must leave the earth and go 
to the moon. There you will always and always carry 
a load of fagots on your back.” 


70 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOLTTH GERMANY 


BLACK FOREST INDUSTRIES 



From the wood industry have sprung; up most of the 
other industries of the Black Forest—clock-making, glass- 
blowing, and the making of mu sic boxes, spoons and paper. 

Everywhere along the rivers and streams of the 
Forest where timber is floated down are saw-mills and 

paper-mills. The 
saw - mills cut 
the timber into 
boards for build¬ 
ings and furni¬ 
ture, or into 
lengths suitable 
for shingles, for 
carving, or for 
use in the paper- 
mills. 

The paper- 
mills take these 
lengths of logs 
and grind them 
fine, mixing the 
ground wood in¬ 
to a pulp with 
water and vari¬ 
ous materials. 
The pulp is then run into a thin sheet between heavy 
rollers upon a fiat plate, and put into the drying 
room. In this way is formed a coarse paper for wrap¬ 
ping and other uses. The wood pulp is also used here 
to make relief maps, as putty maps are made in the 




Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hlntze 

THE SLED-MAKER 


United States. 






A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 71 

Most of the cuckoo clocks we see at home come from 
the Black Forest. The peasants all through the 
Schwarzwald work busily in their homes, carving the 
beautiful cases. We are told that there are two hun¬ 
dred thousand people at work on clock-cases alone. 

The works are for the most part made in factories. 
The towns of Treiburg and Furthwangen are the great 
clock centers. At Furthwangen there is a school 
where the trade is taught. At Treiburg we visit one of 
the clock factories. There are thirteen different de¬ 
partments ; one set of workers make the hands, another 
the wheels, another the weights, and so on. Another 
set put the parts together. 

Besides the cuckoo clocks there are those in the form 
of Swiss cottages, with loaded pine-cones for weights. 
In the storerooms are clocks of all sizes, from the big 
ones whose weights hang to the floor, to those two 
inches high, clocks of light wood and dark wood—all 
waiting to be sent away, many of them to^ our own 
country. 

The carving of clock-cases is only one part of the 
great wood-carving industry of the Forest. There are 
crucifixes, altars and images, paper-knives, boxes, pipes, 
inkstands, and salad forks. 

We visit a number of homes, for it is here that most 
of the work is done. Many of the carvers work without 
a model or anything to guide them, except sometimes 
a small photograph. Here we see an old carver with a 
piece of a tree-trunk before him, but nothing to show 
what he is going to cut from it. He tells us, however, 
that he makes images of the Virgin, and on a high shelf 
shows us a long row he has finished. 


72 A LITTLE JOITRNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

In another home the father and two sons are busy 
carving pipes and paper-knives, while a little boy of 
seven is working on the animals of a Noah’s Ark, and a 
six-year-old child is painting them blue, green, red and 
yellow. In winter there is little other work to do, and 
the whole family carve. These people sell their works 
to dealers, who collect the wares in their storehouses, 
ready to send them to other countries. 

The storehouses are a sight worth seeing. Here 
room after room is heaped with toys—wooden swans, 
mice, whistles and Noah’s Ark figures. Everywhere 
among them are dolls. Some are jointed and painted, 
and no longer than a pin. Many of the larger dolls are 
dressed in the different costumes of the Forest. (3ther 
rooms have horses, rocking-horses and carts. 

Saturday is the day when the toys and images are 
brought in. Girls come with big baskets strapped on 
their backs or balanced lightly on their heads, and men 
bring loads of larger pieces. All go awa}^ happy, for 
this is pay-day. 

Treiburg has an exhibition hall where the finest work 
in clocks, carving, music-boxes and other carved ob¬ 
jects is shown. The most interesting, perhaps, are the 
music boxes. Such a jumble of tunes as we hear! for 
here a group of people are trying one box, there some 
one else is listening to another. ^'The Watch on the 
Rhine,” ^'Blue Alsacian Mountains” and ''Old Heidel¬ 
berg” get so mixed up that we wonder if they will ever 
be able to settle down in their right places. Here a 
violin when hung up tinkles its own music; a book has 
only to be opened to play a tune; and even a chair gives 
the notes of a German air when we sit in it. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


73 


This town of Treibiirg is a wonderful place. The 
people seem to think it a sin to be idle a moment. We 
have not vet seen the women, like the beautiful Bertha 
of old, spin from a distaff fastened to the saddle as they 
ride, but we do everywhere meet women and girls car¬ 
rying whisps of straw fastened to their girdles and 
plaiting as they walk along. 

Everywhere on verandas is seen the rye-straw 
drying. It is cut green, dried, split lengthwise into 
strips, and cut across into lengths so that when the 
braid is plaited it will be as long as one’s arm. Children 
learn to plait when only four or five years old. This 
straw is mainly for hats, but the work of sewing into 
shapes is done elsewhere. 

In another village every one makes brushes and 
brooms, the coarsest being only a bundle of tiny birch 
twigs tied around a small branch for a handle. This is 
the sort of brooms that most of the peasants of the 
Schwarzwald have for common use. In some parts 
tinder is still gathered from the forest. We have all 
heard of the flint and tinder our own forefathers used 
to strike a fire with in olden times. 

BLACK FOREST FARHS AND HOMES 

In the river valleys small farrning is carried on, but 
the hardest toil is necessary to make a living. Two 
or three crops a year are raised, and the weeding and 
hoeing are a weary task. The mold and other dressing 
for the soil must often be carried a long way in baskets. 
The farmers here irrigate their meadows, from the 
mountain springs above, and this, too, requires much 
labor. Their favorite crop is hemp. 


74 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

The people keep cows and goats, but few sheep. 
Often the herds are watched by a girl who knits or 
plaits straw while she keeps an eye on her charges. A 
very odd picture the goatherds and cowherds make, 
for they are never seen without their big colored um¬ 
brellas. 

We spend our first night in the hill regions in a 
peasant home. As we come up a woman leaves her 
cow harnessed to the cart, hurries smilingly toward us, 
and makes us welcome. Very quaint she looks in her 
worn velvet bodice laced with twine, short green 
woolen skirt and bare brown feet. 

We wonder which one of the row of doors we are to 
enter, but our hostess leads the way into a low room 
ceiled with dark wood. Little leaded windows give a 
dim light, and a great green porcelain stove built into 
the wall and bearing the date 1683 furnishes the heat. 
A bench stretches on three sides of the room. On 
this the family not only sit, but in cold weather even 
sleep. 

Verv little furniture is to be seen. A heavy table, 
a cradle painted with angels, in which a little child is 
asleep, and a few logs set up on end for seats are about 
the only articles in the room, except a row of Sunday 
clothes, smoked hams and old shoes hanging together 
on the wall. In a tiny alcove without a window stands 
a bed. 

While we are resting our hostess brings us Kirsch- 
wasser, a Black Forest drink. It is milk with cherry 
juice and water in it. 

Soon supper is prepared. The man of the house and 
his son Karl come in from work. Our host is dressed 


A little; .TOITRNEY to south GERMANY 


75 


in a jacket with big bright buttons and red binding, 
knee trousers and a cap. The little fellow's dress is 
much the same. 

The meal is served upon the bare table, and the 
dishes are of coarse Black Forest pottery. A loaf of 
black-bread, with plate and knife, are placed on one 



IN FINE ARRAY 


side, a pitcher of milk on the other; a dish of sausages 
and one of meat, with kraut and a salad altogether new 
to us, make up our supper. 

After supper we mount a ladder to our rooms, 
which are small and smoky. Although it is warm 
weather, we sleep under the feather bed, which we find 
























76 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMaNY 

everywhere in Germany. Just beyond our rooms are 
the woodshed and storehouse. 

Our breakfast is black-bread, coffee, and oatmeal 
porridge with milk bu1> no sugar. After this meal is 
finished our host shows us over his home. The one 
building serves for both house and barn, and is built 
against the side of the hill. The great shingled roof, 
which covers the whole, slopes down so that one can 
almost reach the eaves, and extends beyond the walls 
about ten feet to form a shed. Here are hung ladders, 
hooks, and all sorts of tools, corn to dry, and clothes 
lines. Here, too, are piled the straw-stacks, and logs 
of wood ready to be made into shingles, for in the Black 
Forest each family makes its own shingles. 

Next to the dwelling part, on one side, come com¬ 
fortable quarters for the calves, then the cows and goats, 
and at the end the pig-sty. On the other side is room 
for the one horse, and the oxen. The top story of the 
house is used for the chickens and geese, and to store 
the hay and grain for the stock. The big door at the 
back opens out on the hillside, so that the loaded 
wagon can be driven in. 

These people seldom leave their home except to go 
to a Year Market, wedding, or merrymaking. Their 
church service they have at home, once in three or four 
months, when the priest makes his rounds. They 
seem, however, to be contented and happy. 

THE PEOPLE 

The people of South Germany are quite unlike their 
cousins of North Germany, in looks, dress, customs 
and religion. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


77 


In North Germany flaxen-haired lads and lassies are 
the rule. Here in the South the locks are dark— 
black, often, as a reaven’s wing. The South Germans, 
too, have dark, deep eyes. 

These people of the Black Forest are very cordial, 
and welcome us kindly to their homes. They care a 
great deal for poetry, and for art and song, and have 
kept alive more of their old customs than the North 
Germans or the Rhinelanders. 

Everywhere in North Germany we saw Protestant 
churches, and heard a great deal about Luther. Here 
in the Black Forest, as in the Rhineland, the religion 
is-the Roman Catholic. There are not many cathedrals 
in the Black Forest, because there are no large cities, 
but everywhere bv the wayside are little shrines and 
crucifixes, and in every home is a basin of holy water 
near the door. 

Throughout the parts of Germany we have so far 
visited we find we can generally tell the religion of the 
people by their dress. People of the Protestant re¬ 
ligions dress in much more sober colors—black and 
green with a little lavender. It is the Roman Catholic 
countries which have the picturesque dress, and here 
in the Black Forest is the quaintest dress of all. There 
are over fifty difierent costumes worn in the Forest. 
Indeed, a Black Forest dressmaker of one village can¬ 
not well sew for a neighboring town, the style is so 
different. In many parts, however, these picturesque 
costumes are not worn except on great occasions. 

The women wear a wide skirt reaching only to the 
ankle, an embroidered bodice with quite short sleeves, 
and over it a little jacket. 



78 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

The head-dress varies; Sometimes it is a little 
pointed cap with wide bands coming under the chin 
and streamers from the point at the top; sometimes an 
immense bow of yards and yards of ribbon, with stream¬ 
ers reaching below the waist; or a tiny cap with huge 
wings spread out behind; or something that looks like 
a tall yellow bowl, bottom side up, on the head. 

The men^s dress is usually a bright jacket with rows 
of big brass buttons, knee trousers, bright suspenders, 
and a little cap. A boy’s dress is much like his father’s, 
and a little girl’s like that of her mother, except that 
her hair is braided over twine, and she wears no head¬ 
dress. 

BAVARIA 

We must next see something of the Bavarian country, 
of which Munich is the capital. Next to Prussia it is 
the largest division of Germany, containing over 
twenty-nine thousand square miles. 

Around Oberammergau are hills and mountains, 
with narrow river-valleys, for the southwestern part 
i-ises into what is known as the Bavarian Alps. Toward 
the east the countrv is as level as a floor. Close to 
Munich the soil is sandy, but in the eastern part is 
found a rich black soil. Here is the ^‘Paradise of 
Peasants.” 

Rye for bread, barley and hops for beer, corn and 
other grains, are the chief crops. The vast fields of 
yellow grain and waving corn, with the blue cornflower 
and scarlet poppy nodding their heads, make the 
Bavarian country a beautiful picture in the harvest 
season. 

Besides grain and vegetables the peasants of Bavaria 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 79 

raise thousands and thousands of geese, for goose and 
goose-liver pie are favorite dishes throughout the coun¬ 
try. The geese are kept in flocks sometimes of hun¬ 
dreds and looked after by a goose-herd. A goose-herd 
must thoroughly understand goose-nature, or sorry times 
he has! 

OBERAMMERGAU 

Our first visit in Bavaria is to Oberammergau, the 
village of the Passion Play. A glance at the long 
name tells us what kind of a region to look for; ^‘Ober- 
ammergaiP’ means Upper Valley of the Ammer.’’ 
The Ammer is a little river, and the Upper Valley 
means the highlands. 

A drive of six miles through some of the most beau¬ 
tiful scenery in Bavaria leads past an old monastery 
and one of the man}^ palaces built by Ludwig II. of 
Bavaria. This king distrusted people, and gave his 
thought and time to the erection of beautiful buildings. 
He is known as ^^The Great Builder.’’ 

This spot was chosen for his palace because it was 
so wild and lonely. The king named his palace Lind- 
erhof, which means ^‘Palace of Rest,” for away up here 
in the mountains he hoped to be alone. He would allow 
but one bedroom in the whole building, that he might 
be excused from asking guests to remain at the palace. 

The building with its park cost several million dol¬ 
lars. Every inch of wall and ceiling is rich with color. 
Here and there and everywhere in the gardens are 
fountains. The Blue Grotto is said to be the most 
beautiful thing of its kind in the world. It alone cost 
millions, for everything in it, though seemingly so 
natural, had to be made. 



OKERAMMERGAU 

















A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


81 


A rainbow, formed by light thrown on a spray of 
water, illuminates it, and is reflected in the grotto 
lake, whose waterfall sparkles out from the darkness 
beyond. It was upon this lake that the king, dressed 
as the Swan-knight Lohengrin, loved to sail his swan 
boat while the orchestra played sweet strains from the 
Swan Song. 

On our way from the palace is the old monastery of 
Ettal, built hundreds of years ago. Here the youths of 
Oberammergau received their schooling. It was the 
monks of Ettal who taught the people of this region 
wood-carving and trained them in music and church 
plays. It is no longer a monastery, and part of it is in 
ruins. 

Soon our mountain drive is at an end. Upon enter¬ 
ing Oberammergau one thing is at once noticeable: 
the houses are all of white plaster and all set primly at 
the same distance from the street. Ver}" quaint they 
look with their outside frescoes, broad eaves, and 
shingles held in place by stones. Here is the village 
inn, with broad front and little windows and, near by, 
a pump without a handle, from which flows a mountain 
stream. 

In the village churchyard is a bronze bust with the 
inscription: ^^His works do follow him.” This is a 
tribute to the memory of the village pastor'who changed 
the old Passion Play to its present form and persuaded 
the town to build a theater. Before this the play, 
like most sacred plays of the Middle Ages, had been 
performed in the church 3 ^ard. 

The theater where the play is given is a building 
large enough to seat four thousand. Part of the stage 


82 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

is open to the part under a glass roof. For stage 
scenery there are the real sky and the surrounding 
mountains. 

THE PASSION PLAY 

The Passion Play of Oberammergau was instituted 
over three hundred and fifty years ago. A terrible 
plague had been raging in Bavaria. The people of the 
village vowed that if the plague were turned away 
from their homes they would give, every ten years, a 
play such as had often been given in other Bavarian 
villages; it should teach the life and mission of Jesus. 

A number of performances of the play are given 
each tenth year, generally on Sundays and holy days, 
because the people wish to preserve its sacred character. 
They have refused to give it anywhere else, lest it lose 
its sacredness. For the same reason the players keep 
but a part of the ticket money, the rest being given to 
the needs of the town and to charity. 

The seven hundred who take part all belong in the 
village. Their costumes are designed and made here. 
Everything must be rich, for any sham would show 
plainly in the bright light of the stage. The mater¬ 
ials are of the finest, the lace and ornaments being of 
real gold and silver. The costumes are patterned after 
old prints and the paintings of great artists. 

Since the people of Oberammergau will not give 
their play elsewhere, those who wish to see it must 
come to Oberammergau. Thousands do come here 
every Passion year, from all over Europe and from 
America. 

The village people are very religious, and look upon 
their play as a solemn act of worship. Those chosen 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 83 

to take the chief parts such as Christ/^ “Mary/’ and 
the Desciples, try to live those parts as nearly as pos¬ 
sible in their everyday lives, that they may be worthy 
to act them in the play. They are drilled by the 
village pastor. 

Toy-making and wood-carving are almost the only 
occupations of the inhabitants of Oberammergau. 
There is a school of carving here where the young 
people learn their trade, but most of the work is done 
in the homes. 

The villagers are very hospitable, and always welcome 
strangers. We visit the little workshop of the young 
man who has twice taken the part of “John” in the 
play. He is a wood-carver, and here are his tools and 
some of the crucifixes and images he has made. He 
shows us a beautiful image of the Virgin Mary, and 
another of Christ which he is just finishing. 

But interesting as we find Oberammergau, we must 
leave it and start on our wav to Munich. 

THIRD-CLASS TO MUNICH 

There are three classes of railway carriages in Ger¬ 
many. No one but foreigners and the wealthiest Ger¬ 
mans ride first-class, for here, the carriages being fitted 
up more elegantly, the fare is higher. Most Germans 
in the professions and business life, and often the very 
wealthy,, ride second-class, which is a little less fine; 
while peasants travel for the most part in the third- 
class carriages when they ride at all. 

On our way to Munich we travel third-class, that we 
may see the common people and learn something of 
their manner. The carriage is unusually full, and all 


84 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

the travel^^ seem to be in gala dress. What is calling 
them to Munich? We learn that it is one of the days 
of the Folkfest —a popular holiday. 

Beside us sits a youth in wooden shoes, green jacket 
with brass buttons, and cap with a feather in it. Next 
to him is an old woman in a short black skirt, rose- 
colored bodice embroidered in gold, and a fur cap. 

At the next stop a group of peasants enter. Some 
carry rolls of bread; others have great lunch-baskets 
on one arm and their coarse leather shoes and stockings 
under the other. They have walked barefooted to the 
station, to save their shoes. As soon as thev are 
seated they begin to put on their shoes and stockings, 
to be in trim when they reach the end of the journey. 

These simple-hearted people enjoy the familiar 
scenery as much as though it were all new to them. 
They call upon one another to look now at the fir-woods, 
the field flowers in rose, blue and yellow, now at a 
stream, or in the distance the Bavarian Alps. When 
the noon hour arrives, out come the lunches. Old 
newspapers are undone, and black-bread and cheese 
appear. Baskets are opened, and bread and cherries 
and wine come to view, and sausages everywhere— 
big, little, and middle sized! 

On reaching Munich, we follow the stream of people 
to the commons on the outskirts of town, where the 
Folkfest is held. 

Everywhere over the vast field are pavilions of 
spruce branches, trimmed with blue and white to 
represent the royal colors of blue and silver. There are 
bands of music, and refreshment and drinking booths. 
At one side are the|stalls for prize horses and cattle. 




A LITTLE JOITRNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


85 



There are processions of all the trades, each in charac¬ 
teristic costume. The bakers are perhaps as picturesque 
as any, in yellow jackets, black belts, and sandals. 
The wheelrights have an old wheel a hundred years 
old, said to have 
been made in a 
day and rolled a 
hundred and 
fortv miles in 
one day. 

There are car¬ 
riages decorated 
with flowers and 
blue and white 
streamers. Mu¬ 
sicians ride on 
horseback. 

Great wagons 
of vegetables, 
decorated with 
blue and white 
ribbons, appear 
in the proces¬ 
sion. The peo¬ 
ple themselves 
are an inter¬ 
esting part of 
the festival. Rich and poor, princes and peasants, 
have come to join in the merrymaking. 

But we leave the festival and pass to the side of the 
commons, where stands a building with a huge statue 
in front. It is the Hall of Fame, built of marble and 


Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

“BAVARIA”—MUNICH 












86 A LITTLE JOURxVEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

containing the busts of all great Bavarians, and famous 
men of other countries also. 

The statue in front of the Hall of Fame is the ‘‘Ba¬ 
varia/’ the greatest of all the wonderful bronzes for 
which Munich is famous. It is the figure of a woman 
holding high in her left hand a wreath and in her right 
a sword, while at her side rests a mighty lion, the em¬ 
blem of the Bavarian nation. The statue represents 
the reward of fame. “Bavaria” stands readv to crown 
any one who is worthy to enter the Hall of Fame. 

This is one of the largest statues in the world. When 
it was set up, it was claimed to be next to the Colossus 
of Rhodes, one of the “Seven Wonders of the World.” 
Ten years it took to make the Bavaria. The statue is 
fifty-four feet high and weighs over one hundred tons. 
The granite pedestal is thirty feet high. 

In the evening we go to see the people and hear the 
music, for Munich would not be Munich without its 
music. Germans love a social glass and a pleasant 
chat with friends, along with their music, and in the 
concert hall we find five or six thousand people in 
groups, quietly drinking their beer. Munich is famous 
for its beer as well as for its art and music. Finely 
dressed ladies and those in peasant’s dress, women with 
handkerchiefs tied over the head and long streamers 
floating behind, professors in long dark-blue coats— 
everybody, in fact, seems to be here. 

The orchestra plays the finest music of celebrated 
composers, while between the selections folk-songs are 
sung in which everybody joins. How heartily they all 
sing! Finally comes a song to the tune of “America.” 
We hum the music, though we do not know the German 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 87 


words. Our neighbors close by notice this and rise to 
their feet. Soon hundreds are standing. We think 
this a very pretty courtesy toward us. 

THE ART GALLERIES 

The next morning a rainstorm keeps us from wander¬ 
ing about the city. We wish for a Bavarian rain-coat, 
such as the peasants and some of the townspeople wear. 
These coats re¬ 
mind one of pa¬ 
per-doll dresses; 
they are made of 
a double strip of 
cloth with a hole 
cut in the middle 
for the neck, and 
the sides left 
open. 

This morning 
is spent at the 
art galleries, for 
which Munich is 
famous. There 
are three fine art 
galleries here : 

The Old Pinako- 
thek, the New 
Pinakothek and 
the Glyptothek, 
all three built by Bavaria’s great art-king, Ludwig I. 

The Glyptothek is the palace of sculpture, and is one 
of the most beautiful of all Munich’s beautiful buildings. 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hlntze 

A CONCERT HALL WAITRESS 



88 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 



It was begun by Ludwig when he was crown-prince. 
He saved money from his own expenses to furnish it. 
The front has a colonnade of eight beautiful pillars. At 
the sides of the colonnade the front has niches with 
statues of great sculptors. The walls are stucco, but 
look like marble. 

The rooms are arranged around a court. Each room 
is done in a tint of its own, and its ceiling frescoed by 
some Munich artist, for Ludwig believed in Munich 
artists. Nearly all the buildings he had erected were 
designed by Munich architects, frescoed by Munich 
artists, and decorated by Munich sculptors, while their 
stained-glass was made in the celebrated Munich 
factory and their bronzes cast in the royal foundry 
here in Munich. 


Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

THE NEW PINAKOTHEK 






















A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


89 


Near the Glyptothek is the Exhibition for Glass, 
whence some of the finest modern stained-glass in the 
world has come. 

The Old Pinakothek is one of the galleries of painting 
and contains the old artists’ work. It is built of pale 
yellow brick in the style of a Roman palace. Many 
of the buildings Ludwig erected were patterned after 
some famous structure in another coimtrv, for he was 
a great traveler, and understood the art of other lands. 
One might spend days and weeks here, studying the 
thirteen hundred pictures by old masters like Rubens, 
Rembrandt, Murillo and others. Indeed, we meet a 
number of art students who are doing this very thing. 
They bring their stools and easels and sometimes 
sketch from the famous pictures, sometimes only sit 
and study them. 

Just across the street is the New Pinakothek, de¬ 
voted chiefly to modern paintings. Its front walls 
have been frescoed bv Kaulbach, an eminent Munich 
artist. King Ludwig is represented as stepping down 
from his throne and welcoming artists from every 
country. On the two sides of the building, also, are 
frescoes. But the damp air of Munich is slowly crum¬ 
bling these frescoes, for they were done in the old way. 
A process had been discovered which prevents crum¬ 
bling, and Kaulbach’s frescoes in Berlin had been done 
in that way, but the process was not used in the Munich 
paintings, so they are slowly peeling off. 

OTHER SIGHTS OF THE CITY 

Since King Ludwig set to work to make his capital 
an art center the people have taken much interest in 


90 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

the matter, and have tried to make their houses as 
beautiful as possible. Here is a house of pale buff 
brick with white stonework, there another of yellow 
and brown brick, and farther on may be seen buff and 
blue, pink and delicate lavender. 

To understand Munich one must know something 
about her great industry, the manufacture of beer. 



Loaned by Mrs. Vr H Hintze 

A FINE BEER HALL AND CELLAR 


Here are immense breweries where hundreds of thous¬ 
ands of gallons are made every year, and a great deal 
shipped away. The raising of grain and hops for beer 
is the chief industry for miles around. The breweries 

















A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 91 

have immense beer-halls, where people go for a drink, 
much as we go for a glass of soda. We learn that 
the concert hall we visited on our first evening in Munich 
is part of a brewerv. 

One of the beer halls we visit at noon. A stream of 
people with steins and pails are waiting in a long line. 
As man}^ as can, drink their beer in the hall, but when 
that is full the others lean against a pillar under the 
pavilion and empty their glasses. Everybody drinks 
beer. We even see a policeman at his post with a pile 
of empty steins around him, and when it rains it is no 
uncommon thing to see people with an umbrella in 
one hand and a beer mug in the other. 

The parks and gardens of Munich are very fine, and 
the Palm Garden is famous. Ludwig II., who built 
Linderhof Palace, bought it of the city of Frankfort. 
He had the plants arranged according to climate— 
the tropical ones in front and those of a cooler region 
behind on a higher level, and back of all a bit of scenery 
to represent the snow-capped Himalaya Mountains, 
with real streams and waterfalls. 

The market we find in Old Munich. The houses here 
are old, but some are rich with stucco work and frescoes. 
Almost all have fronts of delicate tints, and steep red- 
tiled roofs. Around the marketplace is an arcade or 
covered passage, where under low arches are innumer¬ 
able little shops. 

All is bustle and confusion on the chief market day 
of the week. Geese reach out their heads and cackle; 
fish and eggs are close neighbors to toys and dress- 
stuffs; onions, cabbages, and potatoes lie in great 
piles, and everywhere is a throng of people—peasants 




92 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

offering their wares, and townspeople giving their 
orders. 

It is upon one of these old marketplace houses that 
the figure of a Wurvi, or dragonlike flying serpent, 
remains to remind one of olden times. This terrible 
^‘Wurm’’ was supposed to live in Wurm Sea, not far 
from Munich. It was this creature, people believed, 



Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

THE TRIUMPHAL ARCH, MUNICH 


who with its breath caused the terrible plague in the 
city. One day the Wurm alighted near the market and 
was shot dead by the cannon mounted there. 

We ride to the edge of the city, that we may enter 
the Sieges Thor or Triumphal Arch at the end of Lud- 
































A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 93 

wig Strasse, the most beautiful street of the city. This 
arch is a gateway of white limestone in imitation of a 
famous arch in Rome. On its top is a bronze figure of 
Bavaria seated in a car and drawn by four lions. This 
is another of the beautiful bronzes made in Munich. 

On the front and sides of the gate are statues and 
reliefs of white marble showing battles and sieges, since 
the arch was dedicated to the Bavarian Army. The 
Bavarian Army is very important, as it is the only one 
in Germany over which the Emperor does not have 
full command. 

From the arch we walk down Ludwig Street. Its 
buildings are delicate reds, grays and white. Ludwig 
Church has two white towers with a golden cross on the 
top of each. 

Munich University is a beautiful white building, 
with long rows of arched windows and medallions each 
bearing the head of some philosopher or poet. The 
University was moved to Munich in 1826, having been 
founded in another city before America was known. 
Its own library has three hundred thousand volumes, 
and besides this the University has the use of the Royal 
Library of a million books, and thousands of valuable 
manuscripts. Among these is the very oldest copy of 
the story of Siegfried. 

The Munich Conservatory of Music is famous through¬ 
out the world. Music students come from every coun- ‘ 
try and find here the best of teachers. 

It would take too long to tell of the wonderful things 
to be seen in the royal palace, but the most noticeable 
thing, perhaps, is King Ludwig’s Gallery of Beauty. 
This is hung with portraits of famous beauties, whether 


94 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

peasants’ daughters or great court ladies, all painted 
by the court artist. 

At the farther end of Ludwig Street is the Hall of 
Marshals, a portico patterned after one in Florence, 
Italy. From a flight of broad steps three arches rise 
on slender pillars, while within the portico are bronze 
statues. 

Munich seems like a dream-city as we wander up 
and down its streets this sunshiny day. There are real 
people, however, on every hand: peasants in gay cos¬ 
tume, with their baskets of garden stuff; milkmaids 
drawing their carts; laundresses carrying home the 
dresses from the wash on tall poles; gay students and 
long-cloaked professors; little boys and girls carrying 
baskets of moss to lay in the window-ledges through 
winter to keep out the cold—all these form a pleasing 
picture. 

It is not the countr}^ around Munich that makes her 
great, for that is poor and sandy. It is her situation on 
the principal line of travel, and, most of all, her art, 
that have brought her fame. Munich has so much to 
attract people. Students from all over the world come 
to her university, musicians to her conservatory, and 
artists to her art-school and art-galleries. 

BAVARIAN PEASANT HOMES 

Let us now visit the home of one of the well-to-do 
Bavarian peasants. The house, like the homes of the 
Black Forest, is under the same roof as the barn. We 
are welcomed by the mistress, and enter the big dwell¬ 
ing-room off an anteroom at the front. This living- 
room is like a great baron’s hall, and is large enough for 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


95 


fifty people. The low ceiling has enormous wooden 
rafters. The table and benches are heavy, and scrubbed 
till they almost shine in the sunlight which peeps in 
through the little round windows. 

We are shown over the building. The anteroom 
opening into the living-room leads above to the bed¬ 
rooms, back to the kitchen, and across from the living- 
room to the stables, which are almost as neat as the 
house. The immense stone troughs for water are 
scrubbed each day by the daughter of the house, who 
also sweeps the stable floors and does most of the milk¬ 
ing. Colts and calves play in the yard next the kitchen 
piazza, and come up and nibble at our fingers as we 



A village in BAVARIA 

















96 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

stand talking. We return to the living-room, where 
the daughter brings refreshments of beer, warm 
milk, black-bread and slices of cold-boiled goose 
liver. 

The aughter shows us her new gown lo be worn on 
gala days. It is a red bodice with white sleeves, and a 
dark, full skirt. The head-dress to wear with it is the 
enormous silver swallow-tailed Munich cap, so fashion¬ 
able in Bavaria. Her mother’s dress is a black skirt, 
dark green bodice with kerchief of blue and yellow, and 
a tall pointed black cap tied with wide strings and havr 
ing a big gold tassel at the top. 

Bavaria is a busy country; even the women do the 
heaviest kinds of work. As we pass along we meet 
women pulling milk carts or hay carts, carrying mon¬ 
strous loads of wood on-their backs or hods of mortar 
for masons. In one place we even see them breaking 
stones in the street. 

The people of Bavaria are in many ways much like 
the people of the Black Forest. Their religion is the 
Roman Catholic, and their customs, outside the large 
cities, are much the same as those of the Black Forest. 

“ NUREHBERQ THE ANCIENT” 

Nuremberg, the last city of our journey through 
Southern Germany, is in Northern Bavaria, about a 
hundred miles from Munich. It is often called ‘^Nu¬ 
remberg the Ancient,” because it has retained many of 
its old customs. The city is built on a number of little 
hills in the midst of a low, sandy plain. A river called 
the Pegnitz divides it into a northern and a southern 
side. 


A LITTLE J(3nilNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


97 



Tlie city still has its old moat and the larger part of 
its old wall. No wonder the Nurembergers felt safe 
even from the fierce robber knights who, in olden times, 
used to destroy towns with their armies. The wall was 
very, very thick, and had as many towers as there are 
da vs in the year. 

Only part of them 
are standing to¬ 
day—four great 
round gray tow¬ 
ers near the four 
gates of the city. 

These gates, 
are very heavy, 
and have curious 
old locks, and big 
knockers in the 
form of cupids’ 
and dragons’ 
heads. When 
the dreaded rob¬ 
ber knights with 
their thousands 
of soldiers rode 
through the land, 
these doors were 
closed night and 
day, but for the 

last fifty years they have been open perpetually. 
On the top of the wall is a covered passage having 
openings toward the outside, called port-holes, where 
the watchman might look through to see if any enemy 


Loaned by Mrs W. H. Hintze 

OLD GATE TOWER 






98 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

were near. In this way he could go entirely around the 
city, and see everything without being seen. 

The moat outside the wall was thirty feet deep and 
one hundred wide. When an enemy approached, the 
moat was partly filled with water from the Pegnitz. 
Over the moat was once a drawbridge before each of the 
four city gates. 

The city is so very ancient that no one knows just 
how old it is. There are not many houses less than 
five hundred years of age. 

St. Lorenz Church has been pointed out to us; let us 
now have a closer view of it. Its beautiful stained- 
glass windows required the work of many Nuremberg 
artists, for in the days when this church was built each 
artist painted only one or two colors of the design, then 
left the rest for some one else. 

The most beautiful thing about the church is the case 
in which the holy wafer is kept. One would imagine 
it to be a monument. It stands seventy feet high be¬ 
side one of the mighty pillars, and has the image of its 
sculptor, Adam Kraft, upon it. There is an interest¬ 
ing story of how the artist came to make it so beautiful. 
The monument must be large and must stand beside 
the pillar, so the sculptor must adapt his plans to the 
space. Any artist might offer a plan and the best one 
among them all would be chosen. 

Adam Kraft was a poor young sculptor. He loved 
the daughter of a proud old patrician. The father 
would not consent to Kraft’s marrying his daughter 
unless he should plan a monument for St. Lorenz so 
beautiful as to make him famous. 

It was a hard task. The pillar turned to one side 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


99 



to form an arch, so there was not room to make his 
sculpture so high as Kraft wished. He thought about 
it day and night. Finally, one day, while visiting his 
beloved, he noticed in her garden a lily-stem bent by 
the wind. That whispered a secret in his ear. Why 
not let his mon¬ 


ument taper up 
to a point at the 
top and end in a 
stone lily, whose 
stem bent to suit 
the arch? 

His plan was 
the most beauti¬ 
ful of all those 
handed in, so he 
won the woman 
he loved. This 
delicate carving 
is still looked 
upon as one of 
the most nearly 
perfect in all 
Germany. 

We next visit 
the house in 
which another 
artist was born 
and lived most of his life. It is the home of Albert 
Diirer, who planned the city’s four great towers. The 


Loaned by Mrs. W. H Hiiitze 

DURER HOUSE 


house is one of those old-fashioned ones with frescoes 

and steep roof. Here is the little dark kitchen where 

L of C. 








100 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

Durer’s wife cooked his meals and., we fear, sometimes 
scolded her husband, for she had a very bad temper. 

Why are we so interested in Diirer? Because, al¬ 
though he lived in Columbus’s time, he has done much 
for us. He was not only a great architect, but a painter 
and wood-engraver as well. It was Durer who first 
made woodcuts, so called because the design was drawn 
and cut on a block of wood, and from that printed on 
paper. There had been black and white printed pic¬ 
tures before, but they were only outlines for artists to 
fill in with color. From Diirer’s wood-cuts have come 
the ideas for the beautiful pictures of our books and 
magazines of to-day. 

Close to Durer’s home is the house and shop of Hans 
Sachs, one of the illustrious poets of Nuremberg, who 
lived at the same time as Diirer. He is sometimes 
called the ^^Cobbler Bard,” or ^^Shoemaker Poet.” 
And so many poems did he write that we wonder when 
he ever found time to peg his shoes! But they tell us 
he pegged and sang at the same time. He sat on the 
little bench in front of his shop, and sang, too, after 
his shoes were done. 

He belonged to a band of poets called Meistersingers, 
or Master-singers. Nearly all the Meistersingers worked, 
like Hans Sachs, at some trade. They had particular 
rules for writing poetry. When a poet wished to join 
their number he had to write a poem and set it to music; 
if it were thought good enough he was made one of 
them. Hans Sachs was looked upon as one of the very 
foremost of Meistersingers, and was greatly beloved by 
the people of Nuremberg. A number of years ago a 
fine monument was set up in his memory. 


A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 101 



Not far away is the birthplace of another man who 
lived in Columbus’s time—the famous sailor Martin 
Behaim. He was, in fact, a friend of Columbus and for 
a time lived with him in Portugal. We often look up 
places on the 
globe; this man 
made the globe 
on which he 
and Columbus 
traced the voy¬ 
age the great dis¬ 
coverer made. 

Is it not 
strange that, al¬ 
though Colum¬ 
bus had not vet 
found America, 
and people never 
dreamed there 
was such a coun¬ 
try across the 
ocean, Behaim 
should have put 
on his globe a 
big island away 
out in the At- 
lantic? The 
very globe is still in this old house where he was born. 

Now for a visit to some of the fountains of the city. 
Here next to the marketplace is the Schoene Brunnen, 
or Beautiful Fountain. It is a stone pyramid sixty 
feet high, built over a fountain, and beautifully 


Loaned by Mrs. W. H. Hintze 

A HOUSE IN NUREMBERG 




















102 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

carved all the way to the top. For six hundred 
years it has stood here. More than one emperor, no 
doubt, has stopped here to quench his thirst on his way 
home from a great hunt. And those proud old Counts 
of Zollern, the ancestors of the present emperor, have 
doubtless been glad many a time to refresh themselves 
with a drink from it. Here, too, the burghers’ daugh¬ 
ters for hundreds of vears have come to fill their 

C' 

pitchers. 

No wonder the Nurembergers love this beautiful well 
and have come to think that all their blessings flow from 
it. When little children ask where the baby brother 
or sister came from, parents say: ^dt is a gift from 
the Schoene Brunnen.” 

We pass on to the Fountain of Virtue, which is of 
bronze and nearly four hundred years old. Around 
the base are figures representing Virtue, and when the 
fountain plays there are sixty streams of water pouring 
into the basin. 

St. Sebald Church cannot be left out, 3 ^et how is one 
to find time for all the interesting sights? The finest 
thing about the church is the temple of St. Sebald, made 
of gold, silver and bronze. Here there are a hundred 
figures of apostles, prophets, and church fathers. 
This work is a rival of Adam Kraft’s beautiful monu¬ 
ment in St. Lorenz. Peter Vischer and his five sons 
worked five }"ears in making it. 

CASTLE OE THE EMPERORS 

We must hurry on to the old castle, where for five 
hundred 3 "ears the German emperors made their home. 
Nuremberg owed much of its greatness in olden times 


A LITTLE journey TO SOUTH GERMANY 103 

to its being the ^^City of the Emperor/^ It was while 
Emperor Charles IV. lived here that he issued the Gold¬ 
en Bull, a law so called because it bore a golden bull 
or seal. This law declared that every new emperor 
should hold his first diet or meeting at Nuremberg. 
In the center of the castle courtyard stands the trunk 
of the linden tree planted just a thousand years ago 
this year by Queen Kunigunde. Iron bands have been 
put around it to keep it from splitting apart. 

In the courtyard, too, is a well drilled three hun¬ 
dred feet through solid rock. Think of taking thirty 
years to dig a well! The work was done mostly by 
prisoners. There is an underground passage from the 
dungeon cells to a gallery around the well, just above the 
water, but so far underground that even here prisoners 
never saw the sunlight. 

Close by is a tower, the Five-cornered or Nero-Tower. 
From this name, people say, comes Neroberg, and 
finally Nuremberg, or Niirnberg, as the Germans call 
it. This is now used as a museum and its relics tell us 
of very sad days in the old city—days of the most cruel 
torture. 

There is a sunken place in one of the old walls, said 
to be the mark of a horse’s hoof, and this is its story: 

Count Eppelein was one of those fierce robber 
knights whom everyone feared. He was captured by 
the Nurembergers and shut up in the castle’s deepest 
dungeon. The day came for him to be put to death, 
but he begged for but one hour first in the courtyard 
with his beloved horse. His wish was granted. 

No sooner was he within the courtyard than he 
mounted his horse, leaped the wall and moat and was 


104 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

off like the wind! All that was left were his rich mantle 
and the hoof-mark of his horse upon the wall; What 
a jump—over the great wall and a hundred-foot moat! 
But he lived, they say, to send back the message: 
^^Nurembergers hang no man before they catch him!’’ 

NUREMBERG’S TRADE 

In those long-ago times, Nuremberg was one of the 
wealthiest cities of all Germany. Even common peo¬ 
ple lived so well, it was said that a simple burgher of 
Nuremberg was better housed than many a king. The 
immense trade of the city has always been a source of 
great wealth. 

Nuremberg’s hand 
Goes through every land, 

was an old and famous saying. This meant that the 
city sent her goods to many countries. 

And what did Nuremberg have to send away? 
First, eggs; but Nuremberg ^^eggs,” we must remem¬ 
ber, were not eggs at all, they were—watches! ^AVhy 
were they given this name, then?” some one asks. 
Because of their shape. We remember that the Black 
Forest people learned to make watches by seeing one 
that had been brought from Nuremberg. That was 
one of the famous ^^eggs” first made here by Peter 
Heinlein nearly four hundred years ago. 

Then, too, Nuremberg sold a great deal of ginger¬ 
bread. She sells even more to-day. But this, unlike 
the eggs, is really good to eat. We have never tasted 
anything like it! Gingerbread—yes, but so many good 
things in it: a little lemon, a taste of orange, a hint of 
spice, a sprinkling of nuts, now and then a slice of cit- 




A LITTLE journey TO SOUTH GERMANY 105 

• 

ron, a little jelly, a flavor of vanilla, and the whole 
sweetened with honey. It is said that nowhere else do 
the bees make such honey, and we believe it when we 
taste the gingerbread. Others must like this dainty, 
too. for thousands of tons are sent away every year. 

DOLLS AND OTHER WARES 

Besides watches and gingerbread, Nuremberg has for 
hundreds of years been famous for its toys. It now 
sends away tons upon tons each year. All sorts of 
to vs are made in this old town, but the favorite ones 
are dolls. 

Like those of the Black Forest, manv of the Nurem- 
berg dolls are made by people in their own homes. 
One person does one part, another another part. Then 
the parts are taken to the factory to be put together. 
There are, however, nearly a dozen factories here where 
dolls’ heads are made. Let us visit one of the largest. 

The porcelain is ground fine, mixed with other ma¬ 
terials, wet, and filled into hollow molds. It is left here 
only long enough for a thin layer next the mold to be¬ 
come firm. The inside is still soft, and is poured off in 
order to make the head hollow, so that the eyes may be 
put in later. 

The mold is then removed, and before the heaas be¬ 
come really hard they are smoothed off. The holes for 
eyes and mouth are cut and the heads put for three or 
four days into the great oven. 

After this the eyes and teeth are put in, and some¬ 
times the hair fastened on, though often this is not done 
in the factory. The high-priced dolls have real hair, 
but the cheaper ones have hemp spun very fine instead. 


106 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

Bodies are given these heads by people in their own 
homes, around Nuremberg and far away in the Thur- 
ingian Forest. The father often works out of doors, 
but the rest of the family are busy at doll-making. 
The wife tints the cheeks, paints the lips and eye¬ 
brows and puts on the hair. The boys fasten the 
limbs together and stuff the bodies, while the girls make 
the dresses in which the dolls travel far awav over land 
or sea. On a rainy day, when the father is kept at 
home, he, too, helps with the doll-making. 

Friday night the mother puts up a lunch, and packs 
the dolls in a big basket, ready to be taken to town 
early Saturday morning by one of the older children. 



A PEASANT’S HOUSE 





A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 


107 


Sometimes the town is twenty miles away. The bas¬ 
ket is filled again with the plain heads called ^Tlanks/’ 
kid for the bodies, and hair for stuffing to be used for 
next week’s work. If this work brings twenty-five cents 
a day it is all the people can expect. But if the dolls 
are very handsome and thirty-five cents is paid, the 
doll-makers are indeed happy. 

Some of the dolls are given quaint peasant costumes, 
and some the robes of kings and queens. We are told 
that since the Czar of Russia visited France there has 
been a great demand in that country for Russian sol¬ 
dier-dolls. 

Nuremberg has long sent away many beautiful pieces 
of carved wood and ivory, which, like the Black Forest 
carvings, are done mostly in]the homes. Look at the 
pencil you are using. Has it ^fFaber” on it? Then 
doubtless it came from this old town. Many of the 
beautiful colors used by artists come from Nuremberg, 
also. 

Long ago Nuremberg itself needed quantities of these 
colors, for to this city artists from all over Germany 
came to live and paint. It was then a great art-center, 
as Munich is to-day. Sometimes a whole family were 
artists. We are told of a father, five sons and two 
daughters who were all fine painters. So with all these 
things and many more to send away, Nuremberg’s hand 
has been reaching out through many lands. 

GOOD BY 

Unlike Count Eppelein, we are in no haste to leave 
this quaint old city, but our stay in South Germany 
is at an end, and we must say good-by to this land of art 


108 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO SOUTH GERMANY 

and song and legend, of fine scenery, interesting cus¬ 
toms and beauty-loving people. 

We send our luggage to the station and spend our last 
moments at the Schoene Brunnen. We bring our own 
glasses, that we may break them, according to a quaint 
custom of the place. Thus we hope that ^The Beauti¬ 
ful Fountain may one day draw us back again to this 
dear South German land. 


THE WATCH ON THE RHINE. 


Max Schneckenburger. Carl Wilhelm. 

Allegro energico. 




1. A roll like thutider strikes the ear, Like clang ofarms or breakers near, 

2. A hundred thousand hearts beat high,The flash darts forth from every eye, 

3. When heavenwards ascends the eye,Our heroe's ghosts look down from high; 

4. As long as German blood still glows,The German sword strikes miglity blows; 

5. We take the pledge, the stream runs high,Our banners proud are wafting high; 



i 


■n— 




M 


:r. 


^ 










Rush forward for the German Rhine! Who shields thee,dear beloved Rhine? 
For Teu-tons brave,inured by toil, Pro-tect their country’s holy soil. 
We swear to guard our dear bequest. And shield it with the German breast. 
The German marksmen take their stand, No foe shall tread our native land. 
On for the Rhine,theGerman Rhine, We all die for our na-tive Rhine. 

.--J_^ 


=1= 




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-0- 




tr- 

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91 




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THE WATCH ON THE RHINE—Concluded. 



Dear Fa - ther-land,thou iieed’st not fear, Thy Rhineland watch stands 
5—Hence, Fa -ther-land, be of good cheer,Thy Rhineland watch stands 





’i9- 

































































































































































































































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Valuable Granunar Helps 


ier's—A Digest 
of Infinitives and 
rti cin.Ies*;V':.:' 


For pupils armtteachers. Teaching by 
outlfne devek»ps in the pupil a power to 
separate things important froi'a things 
unimportant, and to arrange the result 
of all investigation in systematic and 
logical order. It greatly conduces to 
plear thihkmg, careful and crijtical reading, accurate and terse expression. 

participles is based upon the differ¬ 
ent ofEces they ' perform in\the structure of the English., sentence as 
detertnmcd % careful investigation and is the plan used by the author 
in for yearSv Who has not h^ad trouble with Infinitives 

and Participles ? Here are 36 pages devoted tp these topics. Examples 
are giVenpdiscussionsioilow, uses and nnodels In prpfiisiomhelp clear 
the difficulties until all is plain as cat be desired, St is tbe book for 
■■ail wlio wish to bocoiMO profkientla t&osetopics; 


TftE BOOK ALSO CONTAINS 




^ ^ Physical Oeography 17 pages are 

Outimes in PhySlCal^, ' Political Geography lo pages. 

KTf ^ + suggest plans that will assist any 

ancf M id t Also 40 pages of Technical 

GcOf^raphy . . I V * 1 t ^rnmmar OutiinesvMethods of Tcach- 

’ I Jag.. Grammar, Review. ^ Exercise#, 

of'.Sentence# for P This part 

is wdrtfa the. price of the book aloh^^^^ The complete book makes 107 


e, 25; cents. 


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Wailfcank’s; Outiities^' 
and E::^ercises in 


< - 


By Belle B. Wallbank, foriciierly In¬ 
structor in EOgSIsh Language In the 
State , NorraaS ScSiool, Cedar ■ Falls, 
iowa/\ These Outlines and Exerctses in 
English Oramitiar are intended for ad¬ 
vanced classes and-the teacher herself, 
are xtp be used Id connection with any complete grammar. 
The .first aim of the booh is to be pr^ bring aboivt 

better Use^^ o . The w so presented as to secure 

the use 5f reason rather than memory and imitative power ; 
to serve'.as a preparation lor higher English study. The plan of the 
book is thhTesuit pf,experience in teaching grammar, and is, therefore, 
notl^aSed; simply on thebry. I^ has been called forth by the great diffi- 
’ Ciilty of' text book suitable for advanced ciasses.—cue that is 

;- simide, yet cc^pr^nsive.; 129 PAGES, 26 CENTS. ' • 

;■ and Liter attire, /owa State 

. Normal School : i&ver since “ Outlines in Grammar ” lirst came from the press, the 
boOK h^ been used in the Grammar Classes of the Iowa State Normal School with 
ntost gratifying results; The plan of the work is admirable and the illustrative ex- 
;amplea weU,chosen-apd,abundant. 

' ; O, W. Weyes:,; Superintendent of City Scheols, Keoktik\ Idiif(i: I have used 

Wallbatrk’^ “Outlines and Exercises in English Gramtnar,” and I consider it an 
excellent work. It is especially adapted for review work and for use in teachers’ 
, institutes..'.:'' , v . ' 


A. FLANAGAN CO.. GHICAGO, ILL. 

























ines 




piCallahan's OutBocs 
^|#';;Phy§ioIoRV'. ■ . 


m--: 


By J; M. CftUa^a, Jplitt tiopkiiu 
tUioiversity* Designed to aid teachers 
m the assi^nmtnt oi lessons and for use 


I jfk n 1^ 


» • by the pujpil ia prebarin lesson. It 


iting to 





ere 
This 


but tnhy be used to advantage with any work on physiology, 
p a number of blackboard outlines for review purposes, iiuo 

!v^bbc^‘ba$ been used irt Common, iGraded and Normal Schools with much 



s Outlines^ 
^aJjIes and Sketches 
in U, S, Histoi^ * • ^ 


By $• Lattrb EnafgAt for yetra Iti tbe 
Ibwii Nbhiial Senopi, now in Qirla^ 
l^in $^Ool» Baltiiltore. The best and 
most complete- outlines in U. S. History 
published. The outlines systematize the 
i mattei* ajid are ap aid in studying the 
subject from a variety of books. It can be used for all classes. Eighty- 
fivO'tbousand copies of this work have been sold and the demand is now 
as grOat nk ever. The book is revhed to date. maps, plans and 

dtUtTmeS/; from California to Maine, and in all grades of schools by 
teakl^fjand’pupil.' Price,' 2 S';ceiits, . 


iV '• 


• ♦ 


» * . > ♦ 


These outlines are prepared for the use 
of teachers and pupfls pursuing the study 
of history by the topical method. An 
attempt has been made to put a good 
deal of infpnnatipn in the terse state- 
nientSy especially on points not apt to be 
^ . given in text-books. The outlines are 

adapted to any text or reference books td which the pupil may have 
access. There have been six ed.itionk published, which .shows much 
Interest in a work of this kind. ■ Contains 260 pages of outlines, notes, 
maps j all difficult names re-spelled or diacritically marked ; also, 80 
-blank pages through the book for notes., Cloth. Price, 75 cents. 


Efisign's Outlines 
in Ancient, Mediae^ 
V aI i n d Modern 
History 



A. Flanagan Co., 


CHICAGO. I,ILLINOIS 


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of poetry learned in childhood,’which 
1 . v^ hav^ stood by ine through life iii the struggle to heep to just • 

; ^ Vidca^^^ of ibve and duty. — President EtXio^^ of flarvard. 


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■ ■ We 'Offer the ''fc^wing:''''il' 

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%%Ttk--TContmns Sixteen Hun^ Choice Graded ' Memory, 
->':(Se^/ :-:77iree Hundred^Maxims^ Ar- 

; by Ahthc^v by Fir^ Line, by 

. j ;$Giitiiiie!it. I^any illustrations of poets and. writers. A 
:'::'gteaf^b6ok petson,-' - Price,' -dO 'Cents.--■- 



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This selec€on is used y largely for primarj^ wort. It 
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piler especiaHytut^^ who with love for the 

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.^ : v, -- 7. - ^ '-- SchOOl — i^ 

: L. hundred and sixty-five 

: ;beaUti£ul gleanings variety of sources for home and 

5 V ^opl use. Teachers and pupils uiay understand each other 
‘ -bettdr on account of a gpod quotation which voices the sen- 
, . timent pi both.^. P 12 cents. 


Patriotic Quotations— Relating to American Kis- 
ry. 1 Itpon^ains quotations about Gurl Country, Landing 
pf ^the Pilgrims, Revolutionary War,l 
pendence, Lincoln, Memorial Da;y Grant,; The^^Amencan 
Flag^ Patriotism, Teach: yemt pupils the ^eat iterances 
of'patriotic':''Ainericaiis|'^;i^^ 25 ■■ ■'"' - 





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A.. FLANAGAN CO., CHICAGO 




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JAN '?9 


N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 



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